50mm

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Khoury wrote:

> > I check mine by putting the suspension on "1", and leaning on the seat from the right side with my chest to compress the suspension. I then make sure I have about and inch of wiggle in the chain with it compressed. >

which most will find is 'largly' = net effect of touching the trailing edge of the swingarm protector while on its sidestand. The wiggle room Jeff speaks of is absolutely essential to long c/s seal and chain life. revmaaatin.

[matteeanne@yahoo.com]

I bought Oxford heated grips (with holes in ends) Barkbuster Hand Guards, and a Kaeko throttle lock (meant to co-exist with the barkbusters according to twisted throttle) But after removing the bar end weights, I see the new KLR handle bars are not hollow on the end but threaded? Do I have to buy new handle bars? The threaded portion appears welded to the end of the bar? And if I get new bars, whats a good way to go? Thanks for any input, and sorry I has gone for the last 4 years, I had to get some big bikes to remind me why I stopped going fast. Sean [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[David Nichols]

The Tusk T10 handlebars sell for $28. These are aluminum and compare favorably to the $60 Pro Taper bars and others. The Raptor bend closely matches the KLR bend. http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/43/53/218/947/-/12330/Tusk-T-10-Aluminum-7-8%2522-Handlebar Sent from Yahoo! Mail on Android [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]