turn signal relay failure

[Jim]

I just changed out my gp-110 (8K miles on rear) for a new set and you know how it is, since I have the wheels off I might as well do the first swing arm service. That went great thanks to Mark's site and his answers to my questions. There was some factory grease still in there after 2 years and 12K miles and the bolt slid out no sweat. I admit I did not mess with the bolt under the caps, probably should have as I see there are bearings in that uni-trac joint as well. I was concerned about any tension from the rear spring and potential complications. Next time I suppose. I also loosened up the front headset bolt and using a punch tightened the notched nut below about a 1/8 to 1/6 turn then torqued the top bolt. That made a noticable difference in the head shake/shimmy I had been experiencing lately. No more squirley twitching when riding over a seam in the asphalt or changing lanes and the buffeting behind a truck while not eliminated has been noticably reduced. Finally I decided to pull of the stock grips that had been wearing away on the throttle side. This was by far the most difficult task I've done on my KLR to date. What a mess, those suckers were welded on and took hours to remove and clean. I finally had the bars ready and glued on a pair of Renthal waffle firms in dark grey. I also dropped the oil and filter and filled her up with Mobile 1 15-50w after 3000 miles. The best parts of doing maintenance are the first few rides and feeling the difference in the bike and getting that, did it myself good feeling. Nice tight ride again. --Jim A-15

[paladin_1176]

Well, finally got everything done today. Changing the chain was a bit easier then I expected, at times. There was 50 bucks worth of tools that I wasn't expecting to need, but now I won't do without them. The first was the chain breaker for removing extra links, the second is a press that pushes the plate for the master link in so you can get the master link on. Of course, i didn't buy the press until after I broke the first link, stabbed myself with a screwdriver and got chain grease in my eye. But it's done!!! The old chain was so bad that once the pressure was released, 5 or 6 links kinked up at odd angles and wouldn't budge. The front sprocket cover plate was so packed with grease, there was a perfect cicle where the sprocket sits. At first I thought it was molded plastic, until I hit it with WD-40 to break off the light dirt and oil I saw. All in all, spent about 4 hours on the new chain and sprockets, cleaning, driving to get new parts, etc. I also found out that the brake fluid is not supposed to be dark brown, so I bled both front and back brakes. I do have to say that the brakes aren't going to stop on a dime. But with my trunk and myself, I add over 300 lbs to the bike, and that thing has pretty good brakes. Of course I am now going to go through the other regular maintenance items and see what else is out of date. I'm figuring air filter, fork oil, lube points on the frame, battery water level, rad fluid. Anything else that is I should put on the list? Moose

[Jim Priest]

On 10/22/06, paladin_1176 wrote:

> Well, finally got everything done today. Changing the chain was a > bit easier then I expected, at times. There was 50 bucks worth of > tools that I wasn't expecting to need, but now I won't do without

Moose - glad you got it done! One other thing to consider - maybe next time you have the rear tire off - is to lube the swingarm. Jim

[Rodney Copeland]

Now get that swingarm bolt out and grease it before you can't! Rod,,,,,,ask me how I know --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "paladin_1176" wrote:

> > Well, finally got everything done today. Changing the chain was

a

> bit easier then I expected, at times. There was 50 bucks worth of > tools that I wasn't expecting to need, but now I won't do without > them. The first was the chain breaker for removing extra links,

the

> second is a press that pushes the plate for the master link in so > you can get the master link on. Of course, i didn't buy the press > until after I broke the first link, stabbed myself with a > screwdriver and got chain grease in my eye. But it's done!!! > The old chain was so bad that once the pressure was released, 5 > or 6 links kinked up at odd angles and wouldn't budge. The front > sprocket cover plate was so packed with grease, there was a

perfect

> cicle where the sprocket sits. At first I thought it was molded > plastic, until I hit it with WD-40 to break off the light dirt and > oil I saw. All in all, spent about 4 hours on the new chain and > sprockets, cleaning, driving to get new parts, etc. > I also found out that the brake fluid is not supposed to be

dark

> brown, so I bled both front and back brakes. I do have to say

that

> the brakes aren't going to stop on a dime. But with my trunk and > myself, I add over 300 lbs to the bike, and that thing has pretty > good brakes. Of course I am now going to go through the other > regular maintenance items and see what else is out of date. I'm > figuring air filter, fork oil, lube points on the frame, battery > water level, rad fluid. Anything else that is I should put on the > list? > > Moose >

[Moose]

Which one is the swingarm bolt? I used scotch brite and grease on the axle bolt before I replaced it. Same one or another one to tear apart the bike for? Rodney Copeland wrote: Now get that swingarm bolt out and grease it before you can't! Rod,,,,,,ask me how I know --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "paladin_1176" wrote:

> > Well, finally got everything done today. Changing the chain was

a

> bit easier then I expected, at times. There was 50 bucks worth of > tools that I wasn't expecting to need, but now I won't do without > them. The first was the chain breaker for removing extra links,

the

> second is a press that pushes the plate for the master link in so > you can get the master link on. Of course, i didn't buy the press > until after I broke the first link, stabbed myself with a > screwdriver and got chain grease in my eye. But it's done!!! > The old chain was so bad that once the pressure was released, 5 > or 6 links kinked up at odd angles and wouldn't budge. The front > sprocket cover plate was so packed with grease, there was a

perfect

> cicle where the sprocket sits. At first I thought it was molded > plastic, until I hit it with WD-40 to break off the light dirt and > oil I saw. All in all, spent about 4 hours on the new chain and > sprockets, cleaning, driving to get new parts, etc. > I also found out that the brake fluid is not supposed to be

dark

> brown, so I bled both front and back brakes. I do have to say

that

> the brakes aren't going to stop on a dime. But with my trunk and > myself, I add over 300 lbs to the bike, and that thing has pretty > good brakes. Of course I am now going to go through the other > regular maintenance items and see what else is out of date. I'm > figuring air filter, fork oil, lube points on the frame, battery > water level, rad fluid. Anything else that is I should put on the > list? > > Moose >

--------------------------------- Why keep checking for Mail? The all-new Yahoo! Mail shows you when there are new messages. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jim Priest]

On 10/22/06, Moose wrote:

> Which one is the swingarm bolt? I used scotch brite and grease on the axle bolt before I replaced it. Same one or another one to tear apart the bike for?

Mark has a good article here: http://www.klr650.marknet.us/swingarm.html Jim

[Norm Keller]

Moose, Do the engine through bolts also (clean and grease)! You really don't want the horror show of drilling out a 12 mm bolt to pull the engine.....been there with customer's machines. Change your coolant and brake fluid every year (IMO) to reduce problems. Lube the brake & clutch lever and pedal pivots and such stuff. Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[k650@verizon.net]

The problem is not the flasher. The wiring is such that flow is one way through the flasher for left and the opposite way for right so if it works on one side but not the other the flasher is OK. To keep it simple the flasher supplied from the factory works by resistance. Less flashes faster and more flashes slower. Too much resistance and it will not flash at all. First make sure all three bulbs are lighting when the switch is applied, Front, right and dash indicator. If the bulbs are lit but do not flash most likely the problem is with your front or rear bulb socket being corroded causing unusually high resistance or one of the ground wires from either bulb but it does not hurt to change the bulbs even though they light up because the problem could be in the bulb which is about to fail. Walt -----Original Message----- Dear Micheal, Thanks for your guidance. If there's only one relay serving both sides, this is very weird, since, the left blinker still flashes normally, while the right blinker just burns steady. It's obviously not a bad bulb or disconnected wire, since the right bulb still lights; it just doesn't flash. Any ideas on this? I've pored over the wiring diagram, and find myself reeling from the complexity! I'll see if I can find a replacement relay somewhere, and try swapping that out. Best thanks, Jeff

[achesley43@ymail.com]

Woo Hoo, Oil and filter changed on da KLR. Chain and sprockets checked, repair on fork seal still holding. Arkansas, I'm going see you Thursday. Camping and cooking out of the truck, riding the back roads of the Buffalo River Canyon area by day. Andy in Jennings,.