klr snake oil

[Jeffrey Parker]

Dear all! I've got a 2000 (A14) KLR650 with over 40k miles on the clock. I bought her third-hand in late 2009 in rural northern California for $1000, and she was pretty beat -- possibly having been used for "forestry". She was my first motorcycle, and a great introduction to the wonderful riding/wrenching/riding culture that keeps all of us in this forum. Despite living most of the year in Shanghai, I've put about 10k miles on the bike myself, and made a lot of repairs and upgrades with the help of an awesome network of KLRistas in the SF Bay Area. She's still an ugly old dog, but generally serves me perfectly for both recreational riding and transportation during my monthlong visits to California. I ride mostly on-road, but don't hesitate on dirt roads and trails. I'm about 200 pounds. Last visit in October, the rear suspension gave up the ghost, so I'm in the market for a replacement, or a rebuild. Is it even reasonable to rebuild such a crucial part on the bike, especially at 40k miles? What about a junkyard shock? As for a replacement, the google indicates there are perhaps only four choices. Any I've missed? --Progressive Suspension Series 420 shock, $550 http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Brand/Kawasaki/420%20Series%20Shock.htm --Progressive Series 465 shock, $436 http://www.bustersdirtshop.com/product.php?productid=11290 --Cogent Dynamics Moab Shock, $595 http://www.happy-trail.com/KLR650A/Moab-Shock-KLR650A.aspx --Kawasaki stock shock, $945(!!!) http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/oem-parts/KAWASAKI/2000/KLR650/SHOCK-ABSORBER%28S%29 Finally, the bike has 2-inch lowering links, which work OK for me but is a bit low. Will these complicate the installation? I also note that the Progressive now comes in a short version that is equivalent to 1 inch lowering on a stock bike. Would it make sense to remove the 2-inch lowering dogs and use the short Progressive? http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Brand/Kawasaki/420_series_short_shock1.htm Wild card question: Is this even worth doing on an aging bike for which I only paid only $1k? Sorry for all the questions, but grateful for guidance! Thanks, Jeff [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[pdstreeter@mmm.com]

Jeffrey Parker wrote: I've got a 2000 (A14) KLR650 with over 40k miles on the clock. I bought her third-hand in late 2009 in rural northern California for $1000, and she was pretty beat -- possibly having been used for "forestry". She was my first motorcycle, and a great introduction to the wonderful riding/wrenching/riding culture that keeps all of us in this forum. Despite living most of the year in Shanghai, I've put about 10k miles on the bike myself, and made a lot of repairs and upgrades with the help of an awesome network of KLRistas in the SF Bay Area. She's still an ugly old dog, but generally serves me perfectly for both recreational riding and transportation during my monthlong visits to California. I ride mostly on-road, but don't hesitate on dirt roads and trails. I'm about 200 pounds. Last visit in October, the rear suspension gave up the ghost, so I'm in the market for a replacement, or a rebuild. Is it even reasonable to rebuild such a crucial part on the bike, especially at 40k miles? What about a junkyard shock? As for a replacement, the google indicates there are perhaps only four choices. Any I've missed? --Progressive Suspension Series 420 shock, $550 http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Brand/Kawasaki/420%20Series%20Shock.htm --Progressive Series 465 shock, $436 http://www.bustersdirtshop.com/product.php?productid=11290 --Cogent Dynamics Moab Shock, $595 http://www.happy-trail.com/KLR650A/Moab-Shock-KLR650A.aspx --Kawasaki stock shock, $945(!!!) http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/oem-parts/KAWASAKI/2000/KLR650/SHOCK-ABSORBER%28S%29 Finally, the bike has 2-inch lowering links, which work OK for me but is a bit low. Will these complicate the installation? I also note that the Progressive now comes in a short version that is equivalent to 1 inch lowering on a stock bike. Would it make sense to remove the 2-inch lowering dogs and use the short Progressive? http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Brand/Kawasaki/420_series_short_shock1.htm Wild card question: Is this even worth doing on an aging bike for which I only paid only $1k? Sorry for all the questions, but grateful for guidance! Thanks, Jeff Jeff, yes the rear shock can be rebuilt with a new seal and oil. In my experience, it only lasts for a couple of years and blows out again. My recommendation to you would be to buy another used shock in good condition. Good luck, Paul Streeter [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[RobertWichert]

Jeff (and everybody), I am in the process of installing a Progressive 465 shock with 1" lowered height on my 2007 KLR 650. I picked this shock because I had heard good things about Progressive in general (lots of my Harley buddies use them) and they offered a one inch lower option, which is better than lowering links (I think) because it actually limits travel and that is a better way to go (I think, we'll see). I had 2" lowering links on the bike up until now (I had them on for about two years) and I am replacing them with one inch lowering links, hoping for the same ride height since my kickstand is cut off already. It occurs to me that I should offer to sell you my (still working) stock shock, but I'm not sure that I am ready to do that, having not even finished the installation yet (refer to previous post on the damned carb-to-airbox rubber boot). So for right now, I can say that I decided on the Progressive one inch lower shock and I'll let you know how it rides on the first ride. I did not even know that there was a 420 shock or what that might be better or worse than. Is that really an option, and what's better or worse about it? Did I mess up? So we are kind of in the same place, I'm just a bit ahead of you, Jeff. Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

On 4/3/2012 9:20 PM, Jeffrey Parker wrote: > > Dear all! > > I've got a 2000 (A14) KLR650 with over 40k miles on the clock. I > bought her third-hand in late 2009 in rural northern California for > $1000, and she was pretty beat -- possibly having been used for > "forestry". She was my first motorcycle, and a great introduction to > the wonderful riding/wrenching/riding culture that keeps all of us in > this forum. Despite living most of the year in Shanghai, I've put > about 10k miles on the bike myself, and made a lot of repairs and > upgrades with the help of an awesome network of KLRistas in the SF Bay > Area. She's still an ugly old dog, but generally serves me perfectly > for both recreational riding and > transportation during my monthlong visits to California. I ride mostly > on-road, but don't hesitate on dirt roads and trails. I'm about 200 > pounds. > > Last visit in October, the rear suspension gave up the ghost, so I'm > in the market for a replacement, or a rebuild. Is it even reasonable > to rebuild such a crucial part on the bike, especially at 40k miles? > What about a junkyard shock? As for a replacement, the google > indicates there are perhaps only four choices. Any I've missed? > > --Progressive Suspension Series 420 shock, $550 > http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Brand/Kawasaki/420%20Series%20Shock.htm > > --Progressive Series 465 shock, $436 > http://www.bustersdirtshop.com/product.php?productid=11290 > > --Cogent Dynamics Moab Shock, $595 > http://www.happy-trail.com/KLR650A/Moab-Shock-KLR650A.aspx > > --Kawasaki stock shock, $945(!!!) > http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/oem-parts/KAWASAKI/2000/KLR650/SHOCK-ABSORBER%28S%29 > > Finally, the bike has 2-inch lowering links, which work OK for me but > is a bit low. Will these complicate the installation? > > I also note that the Progressive now comes in a short version that is > equivalent to 1 inch lowering on a stock bike. Would it make sense to > remove the 2-inch lowering dogs and use the short Progressive? > http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Brand/Kawasaki/420_series_short_shock1.htm > > > Wild card question: Is this even worth doing on an aging bike for > which I only paid only $1k? > > Sorry for all the questions, but grateful for guidance! > > Thanks, > Jeff > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Fred Hink]

Robert, I don t understand why you removed this carb boot. Installing the shock is a simple ten minute operation. Remove one bolt from the top shock mount, remove the lower mount bolt and two linkage bolts. Shock will then drop out of the bottom of your bike providing you have a center stand or have the engine blocked up. The Progressive Suspension 420 series shock is the old model and has been replaced by the 465 series. The 465 is a better shock and also offers the hydraulic preload adjuster as an option. You will notice that this shock is much stiffer than the stock shock and will control your weight much better. Any time you add lowering links you will effectively soften the suspension on the rear. Going with the shorter shock is a much better way to lower your bike. You can see the 465 series shock with the RAP hydraulic preload adjuster on my site or by going to: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/images/ps465_rap.jpg Fred www.arrowheadmotorsports.com From: RobertWichert Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2012 7:33 AM To: Jeffrey Parker Cc: dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] KLR650-A14 (2000) rear suspension replacement Jeff (and everybody), I am in the process of installing a Progressive 465 shock with 1" lowered height on my 2007 KLR 650. I picked this shock because I had heard good things about Progressive in general (lots of my Harley buddies use them) and they offered a one inch lower option, which is better than lowering links (I think) because it actually limits travel and that is a better way to go (I think, we'll see). I had 2" lowering links on the bike up until now (I had them on for about two years) and I am replacing them with one inch lowering links, hoping for the same ride height since my kickstand is cut off already. It occurs to me that I should offer to sell you my (still working) stock shock, but I'm not sure that I am ready to do that, having not even finished the installation yet (refer to previous post on the damned carb-to-airbox rubber boot). So for right now, I can say that I decided on the Progressive one inch lower shock and I'll let you know how it rides on the first ride. I did not even know that there was a 420 shock or what that might be better or worse than. Is that really an option, and what's better or worse about it? Did I mess up? So we are kind of in the same place, I'm just a bit ahead of you, Jeff. Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

On 4/3/2012 9:20 PM, Jeffrey Parker wrote: > > Dear all! > > I've got a 2000 (A14) KLR650 with over 40k miles on the clock. I > bought her third-hand in late 2009 in rural northern California for > $1000, and she was pretty beat -- possibly having been used for > "forestry". She was my first motorcycle, and a great introduction to > the wonderful riding/wrenching/riding culture that keeps all of us in > this forum. Despite living most of the year in Shanghai, I've put > about 10k miles on the bike myself, and made a lot of repairs and > upgrades with the help of an awesome network of KLRistas in the SF Bay > Area. She's still an ugly old dog, but generally serves me perfectly > for both recreational riding and > transportation during my monthlong visits to California. I ride mostly > on-road, but don't hesitate on dirt roads and trails. I'm about 200 > pounds. > > Last visit in October, the rear suspension gave up the ghost, so I'm > in the market for a replacement, or a rebuild. Is it even reasonable > to rebuild such a crucial part on the bike, especially at 40k miles? > What about a junkyard shock? As for a replacement, the google > indicates there are perhaps only four choices. Any I've missed? > > --Progressive Suspension Series 420 shock, $550 > http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Brand/Kawasaki/420%20Series%20Shock.htm > > --Progressive Series 465 shock, $436 > http://www.bustersdirtshop.com/product.php?productid=11290 > > --Cogent Dynamics Moab Shock, $595 > http://www.happy-trail.com/KLR650A/Moab-Shock-KLR650A.aspx > > --Kawasaki stock shock, $945(!!!) > http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/oem-parts/KAWASAKI/2000/KLR650/SHOCK-ABSORBER%28S%29 > > Finally, the bike has 2-inch lowering links, which work OK for me but > is a bit low. Will these complicate the installation? > > I also note that the Progressive now comes in a short version that is > equivalent to 1 inch lowering on a stock bike. Would it make sense to > remove the 2-inch lowering dogs and use the short Progressive? > http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Brand/Kawasaki/420_series_short_shock1.htm > > > Wild card question: Is this even worth doing on an aging bike for > which I only paid only $1k? > > Sorry for all the questions, but grateful for guidance! > > Thanks, > Jeff > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jeffrey]

The counterbalance system is poor even with an upgraded doohickey. Those counterweights are heavy and stress the bearings. Upgrading your doohickey will keep better/more consistent pressure to keep the chain from getting loose but that is only half the problem. A KLRista forgot to put the spring in when he upgraded his doohickey. 25,000 miles later he discovered his error to no ill effect. "The problem with the KLR650 cylinder according to Eldon Carl is that the KLR cylinder is supported from the top and the bottom and nothing in the middle. The KLR cylinder on some bike have been known to use excessive amounts of oil because the cylinder becomes out of round. Boring the cylinder will make it round but the more material you take off this cylinder the more it seems it will become less stabile. Going to a big bore kit will make it temporarily round but for how long? Sure you hear all the stories about how someone has this big bore kit done and their oil usage miraculously disappears, the same thing would happen if they had a rebore to the first or second oversized standard piston. Going to the largest size on a rebore at the start is something you don t do because that eliminates all the other chances of repairing the cylinder. If you need to have the big bore cylinder rebored, then what do you do? If you understand that once you put in a big bore kit then there are few alternatives for another rebore, it is your money and you can use it anyway you like." While the aftermarket oversized pistons are slightly lighter, the comment that "oh it runs so smooth now" is ridiculous. Also, the comment that "it has so much power now" is ridiculous. But, you will hear them all the time. The KLR is a KLR. You aren't going to turn it into a KTM or Honda no matter what you do to it. That doesn't mean KLRs are bad; they are just KLRs pretty much no matter what you do to them.