broken side cover mounting "tower"

[fw189uhu]

Need advice on how to prevent the Vista-Cruise from binding against my throttle grip. Got the VC Universal from Fred and attempted to install it this weekend using Chris Eckert's excellent (and clear) instructions as posted on Fred's site. Installed Symtec grip heaters and ProGrip Dual Sport grips at the same time. As widely reported, the original clutch side grip came off instantly with compressed air and the whole removal/cleaning-with-acetone process took about two minutes (seriously). Also as reported, the throttle side grip is a seriously long effort since the rubber grip and underlying plastic throttle tube are tightly bonded. Luckily, the throttle tube is extremely durable (but don't cut through it as I nearly did). As Chris described, grinding off that huge plastic lip on the Kawa throttle grip tube (it's gotta go for the VC to fit) is a bitch. Took well over an hour. The alignment bolt mod he describes is a one-minute job if you've got a bench grinder. However, once I put the VC in place, pinned in proper position by the M5 bolt, the VC binds the throttle tube. The binding is coming from the ProGrip rubber inboard edge rubbing against the outside edge of the VC, not from the VC being tightened too much against the throttle tube. Had I known this would be an issue, I would have left an additional 3/16" space between the inboard end of the new ProGrip and throttle cable housing when I glued it on. As it was, I just applied the JB Weld to the grip, slid it all the way on, and let the adhesive cure overnight. The JB Weld is great stuff; that puppy ain't comin' off without destroying the heater, the grip, and possibly the throttle tube. I don't see how the VC can be thinned, because it would destroy the rivet hinge holding the two pieces together. It looks like I'll have to try to trim back the soft rubber of the ProGrip to give adequate clearance from the VC. Not sure how to do this without it looking like haitch-ee-double-hockey-sticks when I get done. Anybody had this problem? How did you fix it? TIA. Dave

[skypilot110]

Can you get a photo of where it is binding? I had to trim the hilt down a pretty good amount on the throttle side grip but I am not sure if you are saying you are binding at the outside radius or on the inside, end of the grip, surface. Chris

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "fw189uhu" wrote: > > Need advice on how to prevent the Vista-Cruise from binding against my throttle grip. > > Got the VC Universal from Fred and attempted to install it this weekend using Chris Eckert's excellent (and clear) instructions as posted on Fred's site. Installed Symtec grip heaters and ProGrip Dual Sport grips at the same time. > > As widely reported, the original clutch side grip came off instantly with compressed air and the whole removal/cleaning-with-acetone process took about two minutes (seriously). > > Also as reported, the throttle side grip is a seriously long effort since the rubber grip and underlying plastic throttle tube are tightly bonded. Luckily, the throttle tube is extremely durable (but don't cut through it as I nearly did). As Chris described, grinding off that huge plastic lip on the Kawa throttle grip tube (it's gotta go for the VC to fit) is a bitch. Took well over an hour. > > The alignment bolt mod he describes is a one-minute job if you've got a bench grinder. > > However, once I put the VC in place, pinned in proper position by the M5 bolt, the VC binds the throttle tube. The binding is coming from the ProGrip rubber inboard edge rubbing against the outside edge of the VC, not from the VC being tightened too much against the throttle tube. > > Had I known this would be an issue, I would have left an additional 3/16" space between the inboard end of the new ProGrip and throttle cable housing when I glued it on. As it was, I just applied the JB Weld to the grip, slid it all the way on, and let the adhesive cure overnight. The JB Weld is great stuff; that puppy ain't comin' off without destroying the heater, the grip, and possibly the throttle tube. > > I don't see how the VC can be thinned, because it would destroy the rivet hinge holding the two pieces together. > > It looks like I'll have to try to trim back the soft rubber of the ProGrip to give adequate clearance from the VC. Not sure how to do this without it looking like haitch-ee-double-hockey-sticks when I get done. > > Anybody had this problem? How did you fix it? TIA. > > Dave >

[Eckert, Christopher (Infrastructure Solut]

I think the grip is pushed inboard too far but it is not the possition that is causing the problem. If you shove it all the way to the end of the tube the pressure against the iboard inside diameter edge will make the grip bulge in the center, like where the middle of your hand is. This has the effect of tilting the grip's hilt away from the center of the grip and inboard, and thus leaning it gainst the VC. Try sliding the grip outboard about 1mm. I suspect it wont be easy to slide but if the hilt stands straight up again it should get it away from the VC Chris -----Original Message----- From: notify@yahoogroups.com [mailto:notify@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of fw189uhu Sent: Monday, August 08, 2011 2:03 PM To: Eckert, Christopher (Infrastructure Solutions Dept.) Subject: Re: Vista-Cruise Mounting Problem Hi Chris Uploaded three pics, which the Yahoo uploader placed in reverse order. The order should be: 1. "Flange removed." This shows the new ProGrip in place on the throttle tube, with the large flange removed from the throttle tube (so the VC can fit). 2. "In place, boot off." This shows the Vista-Cruise in place, aligned by your M5 bolt modification. As you can see, the VC is already binding against the inboard face of the grip. Moving the M5 bolt inboard or outboard in the slot on the VC flange makes the problem worse, but not better. 3. "Boot in place." You can clearly see the throttle cable housing rubber boot pushes the VC even farther outboard, distorting the inboard edge of the grip well out of position. This is the binding I'm talking about. The throttle will still move easily with hand power, but will NOT snap back to idle position when my hand is removed. The VC locks the throttle as designed, so that's not a problem. Obviously I would have mounted the new ProGrip 3/16"-1/4" further outboard had I realized this would be a problem, but it's too late for that. The ProGrip is extremely soft closed-cell foam and I have no idea how to trim the grip inboard edge back far enough to clear the VC. I could use a scalpel, but it would look like hell. The material is too soft to sand, let alone file. Open to suggestions! Dave p.s. In retrospect, I would advise anybody who's installing new grips at the same time as the VC to install the Vista-Cruise FIRST. Once it's in place it will be obvious how far inboard to push the new grip so it doesn't bind against the VC. ************************************************************ This communication, including attachments, is for the exclusive use of addressee and may contain proprietary, confidential and/or privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, copying, disclosure, dissemination or distribution is strictly prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail, delete this communication and destroy all copies. ************************************************************

[fw189uhu]

Agreed that would be the best solution, but no can do because of the JB Weld on the heater pad and throttle tube holding the grip permanently in place. As I said, had I known, I would have installed the Vista-Cruise first and not pushed the new ProGrip inboard so far that it binds on the VC body. I can remove the throttle tube easily enough, but it still looks like I'll have to somehow cut/grind/sand the inboard edge of the grip flange back far enough to completely clear the VC. Any suggestions on how best to do that? The grip material is extremely soft and flexible closed cell foam. Dave

[Jeff Khoury]

I know it's way more expensive, but I'm absolutely IN LOVE with my Kaoko throttle lock. It is much more elegant than the Vista Cruise. I just ordered one for the DL1000 too.

----- Original Message ----- From: "fw189uhu" To: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, August 9, 2011 2:22:10 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Vista-Cruise Mounting Problem Agreed that would be the best solution, but no can do because of the JB Weld on the heater pad and throttle tube holding the grip permanently in place. As I said, had I known, I would have installed the Vista-Cruise first and not pushed the new ProGrip inboard so far that it binds on the VC body. I can remove the throttle tube easily enough, but it still looks like I'll have to somehow cut/grind/sand the inboard edge of the grip flange back far enough to completely clear the VC. Any suggestions on how best to do that? The grip material is extremely soft and flexible closed cell foam. Dave [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[fw189uhu]

Hi Jeff Interesting idea. The more I look at the VC the less I like the design concept (not trying to start a flame war). The simplicity of the VC is great, but on the KLR 650E (apparently not required on pre-'08s) it requires removal of the large diameter weather seal flange molded on the throttle tube to help prevent water from getting into the throttle cable housing. This results in a very large opening which is only partially covered by the Vista-Cruise housing, leaving at least the possibility of water intrusion into the throttle cable housing. Regarding the Kaokos, aside from the breathtaking price, I have Zeta armor handguards installed--which I love. Kaoko makes a version that fits the 650E with Barkbusters armor handguards (model KBB300, http://www.kaoko.com/pKBB300/KAOKO-Cruise-Control-for-KAWASAKI-KLR650E-Ninja-650R-ER6N-ER6F-ER5F-Versys--for-use-with-Barkbusters-VPS--Storm-Handguards-Fits-KAW100--KAW200-fitting-applications-where-Barkbusters-handguards-are-fitted.aspx). However, I don't know whether the Barkbusters mounting installation is similar to the Zeta mounting. If so, this Kaoko could work. That still leaves me with that gaping hole against the throttle cable housing created by removal of the throttle tube weather seal to allow the Vista-Cruise to fit on the throttle tube. Since I installed grip heaters and new grips at the same time, and permanently glued them in with JB Weld per the instructions, I'm left with only four options I can see: a. Dump the Vista-Cruise (and be left with that gaping hole described above). b. Figure a way to successfully fix my current configuration. c. Buy another set of grip heaters and ProGrips, and a new throttle tube and start over on the throttle side, using the VC I already bought. d. Buy another set of grip heaters and ProGrips, and a new throttle tube and start over on the throttle side. Buy a Kaoko (if it will work with my Zetas). Since I don't have a time machine that will allow me to move back in time four days to when I started this project, I have to pursue "B" to see if I can make it work. Dave

[Jud]

The most elegant throttle lock you can get is a $0.89 o-ring or a small bungie.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Khoury wrote: > > I know it's way more expensive, but I'm absolutely IN LOVE with my Kaoko throttle lock. It is much more elegant than the Vista Cruise. > > I just ordered one for the DL1000 too. > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "fw189uhu" > To: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Tuesday, August 9, 2011 2:22:10 PM > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Vista-Cruise Mounting Problem > > > > > > Agreed that would be the best solution, but no can do because of the JB Weld on the heater pad and throttle tube holding the grip permanently in place. > > As I said, had I known, I would have installed the Vista-Cruise first and not pushed the new ProGrip inboard so far that it binds on the VC body. > > I can remove the throttle tube easily enough, but it still looks like I'll have to somehow cut/grind/sand the inboard edge of the grip flange back far enough to completely clear the VC. > > Any suggestions on how best to do that? The grip material is extremely soft and flexible closed cell foam. > > Dave > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[Shane]

I agree with the O Ring method, 50,000 miles with one on my KLR, so far. If you like the Kaoko, look at the Throttlemeister! That is one nice bit of work. I have one on my R1100RS. Actually it was on her when I came to own her, and I rode many miles W/O even knowing I had cruise on the machine. One day I was WAY too far from home, for being on a BMW product, cruising along at 110MPH when I thought of how nice it would be to have a throttle lock. When I arrived home I went on line to see what was out there to match this machine. "Hey, that Throttlemeister looks great! That just might be what I need. But it does look just like those bar end weights I have now! I'll get that for sure!" So I go out to the garage to check things out, yep that right weight turns! Nice! Of course it is on a BMW, so it is very rare that I go so far away as to use it, but it sure is a nice piece of work!

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jud" wrote: > > The most elegant throttle lock you can get is a $0.89 o-ring or a small bungie. > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Khoury wrote: > > > > I know it's way more expensive, but I'm absolutely IN LOVE with my Kaoko throttle lock. It is much more elegant than the Vista Cruise. > > > > I just ordered one for the DL1000 too. > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > From: "fw189uhu" > > To: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > > Sent: Tuesday, August 9, 2011 2:22:10 PM > > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Vista-Cruise Mounting Problem > > > > > > > > > > > > Agreed that would be the best solution, but no can do because of the JB Weld on the heater pad and throttle tube holding the grip permanently in place. > > > > As I said, had I known, I would have installed the Vista-Cruise first and not pushed the new ProGrip inboard so far that it binds on the VC body. > > > > I can remove the throttle tube easily enough, but it still looks like I'll have to somehow cut/grind/sand the inboard edge of the grip flange back far enough to completely clear the VC. > > > > Any suggestions on how best to do that? The grip material is extremely soft and flexible closed cell foam. > > > > Dave > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > >

[skypilot110]

The easy way out is probably to just trim the entire Hilt off of the grip. If you take your time and cut it carefully so the cut follows the line of the grips surface you may not be able to notice it. the Vista becomes the hilt and everything works fine. As far as my vista mounting document goes I never mounted the grip heaters and never really thought about what to do about JB Weld being used on the grips. My bike is rigged for DS rallys so grip heaters were never an option. Sorry. with regards to the Kaoko and Throttlemeister you need to consider one thing before going down that path. They are both beautifully designed and machined pieces of precision metal art. They work magnificently, I know as I had one of each in my GS days. The problem comes in if you do any hard off road. I managed two hard drops with the Throttlemeister. It shrugged the first off like it didn't happen but the second smashed it to the point I had to remove it to get home. It became scrap metal when it landed on a rock. Precision machined steel and hard off road don't always work together. If you ride off road a lot then the Vista or the o-ring are your best bet. The Vista is in board out of harms way and the O-ring isnt near anything. I chose the Vista sinc eI needed to be able to rapidly flip it on and off if scrolling the route sheet or checking one of the GPSs. The O-ring is simple and close enough to free that you should try it first no matter what. If you commute or tour on your KLR then the Throttlemeister or Kaoko are wonderful solutions and you should consider ponying up the extra money for one. Simple fact is that people do different things with their KLRs so there is no one size fits all solution.

[Jeff Khoury]

The Kaoko's design is similar to, but slightly different from the Throttlemeister. With the Throttlemeister, the whole weight turns (at least the ones I've seen). With the Kaoko, the weight is just like the original although it appears to be made of more durable material. The functional bit is inboard of the fixed weight and is made of Delrin. Nothing would break the Kaoko that wouldn't have destroyed the stock weight. Since the functional bit is much softer than the fixed bit, even if the worst happened and it got ripped to shreds, it shouldn't hurt the metal threads, and the Delrin part is replaceable.

----- Original Message ----- From: "skypilot110" To: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2011 5:48:46 AM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Vista-Cruise Mounting Problem The easy way out is probably to just trim the entire Hilt off of the grip. If you take your time and cut it carefully so the cut follows the line of the grips surface you may not be able to notice it. the Vista becomes the hilt and everything works fine. As far as my vista mounting document goes I never mounted the grip heaters and never really thought about what to do about JB Weld being used on the grips. My bike is rigged for DS rallys so grip heaters were never an option. Sorry. with regards to the Kaoko and Throttlemeister you need to consider one thing before going down that path. They are both beautifully designed and machined pieces of precision metal art. They work magnificently, I know as I had one of each in my GS days. The problem comes in if you do any hard off road. I managed two hard drops with the Throttlemeister. It shrugged the first off like it didn't happen but the second smashed it to the point I had to remove it to get home. It became scrap metal when it landed on a rock. Precision machined steel and hard off road don't always work together. If you ride off road a lot then the Vista or the o-ring are your best bet. The Vista is in board out of harms way and the O-ring isnt near anything. I chose the Vista sinc eI needed to be able to rapidly flip it on and off if scrolling the route sheet or checking one of the GPSs. The O-ring is simple and close enough to free that you should try it first no matter what. If you commute or tour on your KLR then the Throttlemeister or Kaoko are wonderful solutions and you should consider ponying up the extra money for one. Simple fact is that people do different things with their KLRs so there is no one size fits all solution.