safety vests for conspiquity?

[Eddie]

#ygrps-yiv-1397086572 p {margin:0;} G&B Customs here in Columbus, GA sends out some highly questionable repair work. I mean really - how do (in good conscience) you lose the bolts to a clutch cover when replacing the clutch on a sport bike and replace them with whatever you have around, i.e. a flat head, countersunk *wood screws* ?? I guess huge amounts of orange silicone sealant will keep it sealed, too. They must buy it by the case.   eddie    

----- Original Message ----- [b]From:[/b] jeff@... [b]To: [/b]moabmc@...;dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] 10/4/2010 11:09:30 AM [b]Subject:[/b] [Norton AntiSpam] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Replacement Engine for 94' (snip) If you live in Los Angeles, never ever - under any circumstances, take your motorcycle to Johnson & Wood for repair.  You would not believe what I've seen come out of their shop. -Jeff Khoury

[Jeff Khoury]

#ygrps-yiv-890998137 p {margin:0;}A motorcycle messenger came to me with his 2009 KLR, I had a couple of street tires that he bought from me and I was mounting them for him. Johnson & Wood had mounted his previous set.  The pinch bolts on the on the forks are made out of a metal about as hard as play-doh, and they had most likely torqued them to about 2,000 ft-lbs.  It took us the better part of two hours to remove the pinch bolts.  We used a hammer and an oversize allen socket, and for one of them we ended up driving in a larger allen socket coated in JB-KWIK, letting it set up and using an impact wrench to loosen it. -Jeff Khoury

----- Original Message ----- From: "eddie" To: "KLR650 list" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, October 4, 2010 10:48:47 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: [DSN_KLR650] NKLR: shops to avoid   G&B Customs here in Columbus, GA sends out some highly questionable repair work. I mean really - how do (in good conscience) you lose the bolts to a clutch cover when replacing the clutch on a sport bike and replace them with whatever you have around, i.e. a flat head, countersunk *wood screws* ?? I guess huge amounts of orange silicone sealant will keep it sealed, too. They must buy it by the case.   eddie     ----- Original Message ----- [b]From:[/b] jeff@... [b]To: [/b]moabmc@...;dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] 10/4/2010 11:09:30 AM [b]Subject:[/b] [Norton AntiSpam] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Replacement Engine for 94' (snip) If you live in Los Angeles, never ever - under any circumstances, take your motorcycle to Johnson & Wood for repair.  You would not believe what I've seen come out of their shop. -Jeff Khoury

[RobertWichert]

What?!  No pop-rivets? Robert P. Wichert P.Eng +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ========================================================

On 10/4/2010 10:48 AM, eddie wrote:   G&B Customs here in Columbus, GA sends out some highly questionable repair work. I mean really - how do (in good conscience) you lose the bolts to a clutch cover when replacing the clutch on a sport bike and replace them with whatever you have around, i.e. a flat head, countersunk *wood screws* ?? I guess huge amounts of orange silicone sealant will keep it sealed, too. They must buy it by the case.   eddie     ----- Original Message ----- [b]From:[/b] jeff@... [b]To: [/b]moabmc@...;dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] 10/4/2010 11:09:30 AM [b]Subject:[/b] [Norton AntiSpam] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Replacement Engine for 94' (snip) If you live in Los Angeles, never ever - under any circumstances, take your motorcycle to Johnson & Wood for repair.  You would not believe what I've seen come out of their shop. -Jeff Khoury

[Shane]

Gang When you find yourself with those oatmeal cap screws stripped out, use a TORX bit. They are usually a bit larger than the hex. Bang that baby in there and turn the screw out. Works a treat every time! Shane

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Khoury wrote: > > A motorcycle messenger came to me with his 2009 KLR, I had a couple of street tires that he bought from me and I was mounting them for him. > > Johnson & Wood had mounted his previous set. The pinch bolts on the on the forks are made out of a metal about as hard as play-doh, and they had most likely torqued them to about 2,000 ft-lbs. It took us the better part of two hours to remove the pinch bolts. We used a hammer and an oversize allen socket, and for one of them we ended up driving in a larger allen socket coated in JB-KWIK, letting it set up and using an impact wrench to loosen it. > > > -Jeff Khoury > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "eddie" > To: "KLR650 list" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Monday, October 4, 2010 10:48:47 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] NKLR: shops to avoid > > > > > > > > > G&B Customs here in Columbus, GA sends out some highly questionable repair work. > I mean really - how do (in good conscience) you lose the bolts to a clutch cover when replacing the clutch on a sport bike > and replace them with whatever you have around, i.e. a flat head, countersunk *wood screws* ?? > I guess huge amounts of orange silicone sealant will keep it sealed, too. > They must buy it by the case. > > > eddie > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Jeff Khoury > To: Fred Hink ; dsn klr650 > Sent: 10/4/2010 11:09:30 AM > Subject: [Norton AntiSpam] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Replacement Engine for 94' > > > (snip) > If you live in Los Angeles, never ever - under any circumstances, take your motorcycle to Johnson & Wood for repair. You would not believe what I've seen come out of their shop. > > -Jeff Khoury >

[sh8knj8kster]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Shane" wrote:

> > Gang > When you find yourself with those oatmeal cap screws stripped out, use a TORX bit. They are usually a bit larger than the hex. Bang that baby in there and turn the screw out. Works a treat every time! > Shane >

~~~I'll have to give that a go soon as I have an Allen head fastener that is in real bad shape...one of the bolts holding a clamp onto the frame of my 950A, left side front crashbar...I had it off one time, I got it off but swore I was going to buy a new fastener before buttoning it up, then forgot all about it til a week or so later when I was putting the fastener back on, the head stripped even though I was turning the nut on that stud behind it. If your Torx trick doesn't work Shane I have a few other tricks up my sleeve=:-)...like cutting a slot head into the mangled head with a dremel, or drill it off, or sand it off with a angle die grinder I have. it's strictly a bolt hoplding a pinch clamp on a frame tube so not the problem to remove like the axle pinch bolt Jeff described Jake Reddick Fla. My great grandfather was an old indian fighter...he was married to an old indian... http://www.shakinjake.blogspot.com/

> --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Khoury wrote: > > > > A motorcycle messenger came to me with his 2009 KLR, I had a couple of street tires that he bought from me and I was mounting them for him. > > > > Johnson & Wood had mounted his previous set. The pinch bolts on the on the forks are made out of a metal about as hard as play-doh, and they had most likely torqued them to about 2,000 ft-lbs. It took us the better part of two hours to remove the pinch bolts. We used a hammer and an oversize allen socket, and for one of them we ended up driving in a larger allen socket coated in JB-KWIK, letting it set up and using an impact wrench to loosen it. > > > > > > -Jeff Khoury > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "eddie" > > To: "KLR650 list" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > > Sent: Monday, October 4, 2010 10:48:47 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific > > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] NKLR: shops to avoid > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > G&B Customs here in Columbus, GA sends out some highly questionable repair work. > > I mean really - how do (in good conscience) you lose the bolts to a clutch cover when replacing the clutch on a sport bike > > and replace them with whatever you have around, i.e. a flat head, countersunk *wood screws* ?? > > I guess huge amounts of orange silicone sealant will keep it sealed, too. > > They must buy it by the case. > > > > > > eddie > > > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Jeff Khoury > > To: Fred Hink ; dsn klr650 > > Sent: 10/4/2010 11:09:30 AM > > Subject: [Norton AntiSpam] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Replacement Engine for 94' > > > > > > (snip) > > If you live in Los Angeles, never ever - under any circumstances, take your motorcycle to Johnson & Wood for repair. You would not believe what I've seen come out of their shop. > > > > -Jeff Khoury > > >

[Shane]

A welder also works well to get you out of these situations! An old crusty guy in a starter shop taught me to use a battery and a bolt to get these things out, works on the smaller dia. stuff. A real welder required for 6mm +. There are specialty welding rods out there for this service as well. Shane

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "sh8knj8kster" wrote: > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Shane" wrote: > > > > Gang > > When you find yourself with those oatmeal cap screws stripped out, use a TORX bit. They are usually a bit larger than the hex. Bang that baby in there and turn the screw out. Works a treat every time! > > Shane > > > > > > > ~~~I'll have to give that a go soon as I have an Allen head fastener that is in real bad shape...one of the bolts holding a clamp onto the frame of my 950A, left side front crashbar...I had it off one time, I got it off but swore I was going to buy a new fastener before buttoning it up, then forgot all about it til a week or so later when I was putting the fastener back on, the head stripped even though I was turning the nut on that stud behind it. If your Torx trick doesn't work Shane I have a few other tricks up my sleeve=:-)...like cutting a slot head into the mangled head with a dremel, or drill it off, or sand it off with a angle die grinder I have. it's strictly a bolt hoplding a pinch clamp on a frame tube so not the problem to remove like the axle pinch bolt Jeff described > > > > > Jake > Reddick Fla. > My great grandfather was an old indian fighter...he was married to an old indian... > > > > http://www.shakinjake.blogspot.com/ > > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Khoury wrote: > > > > > > A motorcycle messenger came to me with his 2009 KLR, I had a couple of street tires that he bought from me and I was mounting them for him. > > > > > > Johnson & Wood had mounted his previous set. The pinch bolts on the on the forks are made out of a metal about as hard as play-doh, and they had most likely torqued them to about 2,000 ft-lbs. It took us the better part of two hours to remove the pinch bolts. We used a hammer and an oversize allen socket, and for one of them we ended up driving in a larger allen socket coated in JB-KWIK, letting it set up and using an impact wrench to loosen it. > > > > > > > > > -Jeff Khoury > > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "eddie" > > > To: "KLR650 list" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > > > Sent: Monday, October 4, 2010 10:48:47 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific > > > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] NKLR: shops to avoid > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > G&B Customs here in Columbus, GA sends out some highly questionable repair work. > > > I mean really - how do (in good conscience) you lose the bolts to a clutch cover when replacing the clutch on a sport bike > > > and replace them with whatever you have around, i.e. a flat head, countersunk *wood screws* ?? > > > I guess huge amounts of orange silicone sealant will keep it sealed, too. > > > They must buy it by the case. > > > > > > > > > eddie > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: Jeff Khoury > > > To: Fred Hink ; dsn klr650 > > > Sent: 10/4/2010 11:09:30 AM > > > Subject: [Norton AntiSpam] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Replacement Engine for 94' > > > > > > > > > (snip) > > > If you live in Los Angeles, never ever - under any circumstances, take your motorcycle to Johnson & Wood for repair. You would not believe what I've seen come out of their shop. > > > > > > -Jeff Khoury > > > > > >

[sh8knj8kster]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Shane" wrote:

> > A welder also works well to get you out of these situations! An old crusty guy in a starter shop taught me to use a battery and a bolt to get these things out, works on the smaller dia. stuff. A real welder required for 6mm +. There are specialty welding rods out there for this service as well. > Shane >

~~~Shane, I'm not sure I follow what you are saying, plese explain more (TIA) Jake Reddick Fla. Good judgement comes from bad experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgement. http://www.shakinjake.blogspot.com/

> --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "sh8knj8kster" wrote: > > > > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Shane" wrote: > > > > > > Gang > > > When you find yourself with those oatmeal cap screws stripped out, use a TORX bit. They are usually a bit larger than the hex. Bang that baby in there and turn the screw out. Works a treat every time! > > > Shane > > > > > > > > > > > > > ~~~I'll have to give that a go soon as I have an Allen head fastener that is in real bad shape...one of the bolts holding a clamp onto the frame of my 950A, left side front crashbar...I had it off one time, I got it off but swore I was going to buy a new fastener before buttoning it up, then forgot all about it til a week or so later when I was putting the fastener back on, the head stripped even though I was turning the nut on that stud behind it. If your Torx trick doesn't work Shane I have a few other tricks up my sleeve=:-)...like cutting a slot head into the mangled head with a dremel, or drill it off, or sand it off with a angle die grinder I have. it's strictly a bolt hoplding a pinch clamp on a frame tube so not the problem to remove like the axle pinch bolt Jeff described > > > > > > > > > > Jake > > Reddick Fla. > > My great grandfather was an old indian fighter...he was married to an old indian... > > > > > > > > http://www.shakinjake.blogspot.com/ > > > > > > > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Khoury wrote: > > > > > > > > A motorcycle messenger came to me with his 2009 KLR, I had a couple of street tires that he bought from me and I was mounting them for him. > > > > > > > > Johnson & Wood had mounted his previous set. The pinch bolts on the on the forks are made out of a metal about as hard as play-doh, and they had most likely torqued them to about 2,000 ft-lbs. It took us the better part of two hours to remove the pinch bolts. We used a hammer and an oversize allen socket, and for one of them we ended up driving in a larger allen socket coated in JB-KWIK, letting it set up and using an impact wrench to loosen it. > > > > > > > > > > > > -Jeff Khoury > > > > > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > From: "eddie" > > > > To: "KLR650 list" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > > > > Sent: Monday, October 4, 2010 10:48:47 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific > > > > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] NKLR: shops to avoid > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > G&B Customs here in Columbus, GA sends out some highly questionable repair work. > > > > I mean really - how do (in good conscience) you lose the bolts to a clutch cover when replacing the clutch on a sport bike > > > > and replace them with whatever you have around, i.e. a flat head, countersunk *wood screws* ?? > > > > I guess huge amounts of orange silicone sealant will keep it sealed, too. > > > > They must buy it by the case. > > > > > > > > > > > > eddie > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > From: Jeff Khoury > > > > To: Fred Hink ; dsn klr650 > > > > Sent: 10/4/2010 11:09:30 AM > > > > Subject: [Norton AntiSpam] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Replacement Engine for 94' > > > > > > > > > > > > (snip) > > > > If you live in Los Angeles, never ever - under any circumstances, take your motorcycle to Johnson & Wood for repair. You would not believe what I've seen come out of their shop. > > > > > > > > -Jeff Khoury > > > > > > > > > >

[swankallcity]

I got the high viz Zip-n-Rip vest  from here:http://www.hivizstore.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=91&category_id=12&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53 Inexpensive, mesh and bright! -Barron

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "hansenj32" wrote: > > > As we're moving into the cold months here in NE Ohio, I'll be going from > my Tourmaster Transition coat in bright yellow to another Tourmaster > jacket designed for colder temps in black. I hate to give up the > conspiquity of my yellow coat and am thinking about adding a hi-viz > yellow or green vest, but am wondering about flutter. For those of you > who wear safety vests, is there much, if any, problem w/ flutter or > ballooning? > > Jake >

[Shane]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "sh8knj8kster" wrote:

> > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Shane" wrote: > > > > A welder also works well to get you out of these situations! An old crusty guy in a starter shop taught me to use a battery and a bolt to get these things out, works on the smaller dia. stuff. A real welder required for 6mm +. There are specialty welding rods out there for this service as well. > > Shane > > > > > > > ~~~Shane, I'm not sure I follow what you are saying, plese explain more

You can use a welder to attach a new bolt head to a broken bolt, if you have the luxury of enough shank sticking out of the case. The is a Co. called Xergon who used to sell a rod for welding to a broken bolt which was broken below the surface, I don't know if they are still at it though. You can use a 12V battery to spot weld, I repaired a headlight ring on an old Corvette using 2 large nails and jumper cables once. The real trick to stuck bolts (I'm also an outboard mechanic with OMC & Suzuki certs. so I have seen stuck!) is to take advantage of the properties of the metals involved. Steel expands and returns with good memory, aluminum not so good. In KLR's we are dealing with much the same as outboards, without the salt water- we hope. The trick is to heat the bolt- get mean with it. Then heat the aluminum surrounding the bolt. Let the entire mess cool to ambient. Now go back and heat JUST the aluminum surround and the bolt will walk right out. If you don't have oxy-Acet. you can use a welder to heat a bolt very quickly! Just ground the case near the bolt, short the electrode to the broken bolt for a second. Turn off the welder instead of pulling off the electrode. Things will be plenty hot now! After things cool off ground the case and touch the trode to the case for a very short time, instant heat again. Now the steel has pushed the aluminum case away and returned to original diameter, while the aluminum is slightly larger. the bolt will now turn. A 12V battery cane be used this way, in place of the welder. I keep very hard wire in my Mig rig, a broken bolt can be welded upon to build up a stub you can get a grip on to turn it. Usually the heat of welding to it expands the aluminum enough so that when things cool the bolt turns. Give it a go with some junk laying around the garage!