valve shims?

[mark ward]

Hey all I barely got a 1/4in drive ratchet/socket in to remove the bolts on the camshaft caps. how do you Torque them, when the is no space for the ones directly under the frame? ALSO I seen a small line, in the hole, but NO "T" for TDC, AND, the lines on the timing chain gears, did NOT line up as the book ect. says they are suposed to. It seemed to start & run fine. (timing???) (apart right now, waiting to hear about Torque-ing.)

[Jud]

If you use a torque wrench on all the bolts you can get at, you should have an idea of how tight they should be. Then you can just tighten them that tight. Or, if you have been tightening 6 mm fasteners for the last 20 or 40 years, you can just make them all that tight.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, mark ward wrote: > > Hey all > > I barely got a 1/4in drive ratchet/socket in to remove the bolts on the camshaft > caps. > how do you Torque them, when the is no space for the ones directly under the > frame? > > ALSO I seen a small line, in the hole, but NO "T" for TDC, AND, the lines on the > timing chain gears, did NOT line up as the book ect. says they are suposed to. > > It seemed to start & run fine. (timing???) > (apart right now, waiting to hear about Torque-ing.) >

[Mike Huber]

Mark...I just did my valves yesterday and there is room for a 1/4" inch lb.torque wrench and 10mm short socket under the frame rails....Torque them to 106 in.lbs.....   As far as the timing marks, there are more than one mark ....if your tuning the crank bolt CCW the cam lobes will be pointing towards the front and rear of the motor and you will see some timing marks in the hole first, before you get to the one with the "T" next to it....Turn the crank CCW a few times and you will see what I mean.....   After you find the timing mark and measure your clearances loosen up the 12mm cam chain tensioner bolt before you remove the 10mm bolts and remove the mechanism.....It's a PITA to break that 12mm bolt after you remove it from the block...It has to be reset before you put it back in or you'll damage the camchain tensioning blocks....   I never pulled my cams completly out to replace the shims...I also leave the upper camchain tensioner bolted up...I just REMOVE the cam caps WITHOUT the oil line ((( keep track of the dowel tubes ))) and LOOSEN up the cam caps WITH the oil line and I'm able to fish the shims out with a magnet and screwdriver.... If i do it this way I don't worry about retiming the cams with the crank....Make sure to oil the new shims when you put them in and that they are fully seated into the buckets before you torque the caps....   I also helps to have an assortment of shims on hand when you start swapping sizes...You might be able to swap one in from another bucket but sooner or later your going to need a size you don't have....Fred sells a nice assortment that will get you going....   Good luck my friend...Mike 06 FullyFarkledFrog         To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com From: nomad59@... Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 20:15:14 -0700 Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Torqueing cam shaft?   Hey all I barely got a 1/4in drive ratchet/socket in to remove the bolts on the camshaft caps. how do you Torque them, when the is no space for the ones directly under the frame? ALSO I seen a small line, in the hole, but NO "T" for TDC, AND, the lines on the timing chain gears, did NOT line up as the book ect. says they are suposed to. It seemed to start & run fine. (timing???) 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[fasteddiecopeman]

And go to http://www.klr650.marknet.us/valves.html to check on how to do it. Ed