2006 klr for sale

[roncriswell@sbcglobal.net]

My KLR is getting where it won't hardly turn over the engine acting like a weak battery. The battery is maybe 3 years old. I went and got this battery checker thing at Harbor Freight. It says let the battery sit 12 hours before you check it. I was curious so hooked both wires up. Directions say if red, yellow, green light comes on without engine running the battery is great. If only red light comes on, bad battery and red and yellow light means a fair battery. Well, red and yellow came on but this was without sitting unused for 12 hours. Next I did the alternator test where both green lights were supposed to come on for the alternator to be good. The alternator green light didn't so that according to directions means bad alternator. What do the list think? The bike has also backfired during starting the last two starts and I have had to push start it a couple times (down a hill thank goodness). The bike has almost 53,000 miles on it. If it is the alternator, where do you get the best deal on one? Criswell

[Jeff Khoury]

#ygrps-yiv-1994544890 p {margin:0;}I don't know about the "lights", but here is how you test the stator (alternator). Take a standard digital meter.  Start the bike and Unplug the stator.  You will have 3 wires. Set the meter to Volts ---AC---.  Hold the probes across all combinations of the wires.  They should all read approximately the same, and usually above 50v from any lead to any other lead.  The voltage will vary, but that's a good rule-of-thumb. If that test is good and your battery is good, then the Regulator/Rectifier is bad. That's how I do it, anyway. -Jeff Khoury

----- Original Message ----- From: roncriswell@... To: "KLR Group" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>, CurtisDrew@... Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 3:30:49 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: [DSN_KLR650] battery or alternator????   My KLR is getting where it won't hardly turn over the engine acting like a weak battery. The battery is maybe 3 years old. I went and got this battery checker thing at Harbor Freight. It says let the battery sit 12 hours before you check it. I was curious so hooked both wires up. Directions say if red, yellow, green light comes on without engine running the battery is great. If only red light comes on, bad battery and red and yellow light means a fair battery. Well, red and yellow came on but this was without sitting unused for 12 hours. Next I did the alternator test where both green lights were supposed to come on for the alternator to be good. The alternator green light didn't so that according to directions means bad alternator. What do the list think? The bike has also backfired during starting the last two starts and I have had to push start it a couple times (down a hill thank goodness). The bike has almost 53,000 miles on it. If it is the alternator, where do you get the best deal on one? Criswell

[Jud]

I think all the flashing lights would leave me more in the dark than before I started. I use a multimeter across the battery terminals. First I charge the battery and let it stand for an hour. A good battery should read about 12.6 v. Crank the starter; the voltage should not drop below 10v. If it does, the battery is on its way out. Charging voltage at idle should be in the neighborhood of 13.1 v, rising with revs until the regulator cuts it off somewhere around 14.5 volts. I think I got this procedure from someone on this list several years ago. I have discovered several failing batteries with it, a couple of which I have revived (for a while) with aspirin. I have found one bad regulator, but never a bad alternator, yet.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "roncriswell@..." wrote: > > My KLR is getting where it won't hardly turn over the engine acting like a weak battery. The battery is maybe 3 years old. I went and got this battery checker thing at Harbor Freight. It says let the battery sit 12 hours before you check it. I was curious so hooked both wires up. Directions say if red, yellow, green light comes on without engine running the battery is great. If only red light comes on, bad battery and red and yellow light means a fair battery. Well, red and yellow came on but this was without sitting unused for 12 hours. Next I did the alternator test where both green lights were supposed to come on for the alternator to be good. The alternator green light didn't so that according to directions means bad alternator. What do the list think? The bike has also backfired during starting the last two starts and I have had to push start it a couple times (down a hill thank goodness). The bike has almost 53,000 miles on it. If it is the alternator, where do you get the best deal on one? > > Criswell >

[sopris_2000]

This is in craiglist in central Colorado. $3000 with Happy Trail panniers, looks like one heck of a deal. http://rockies.craigslist.org/mcy/1638144463.html

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jud" wrote:

>

SNIP

> > I think I got this procedure from someone on this list several years ago. I have discovered several failing batteries with it, a couple of which I have revived (for a while) with aspirin. I have found one bad regulator, but never a bad alternator, yet. >

Hmmm. I would like to know the mechanics of how an aspirin would revive a battery. Wet/slosh (=Lead Acid; wet nicad is another story) battery mechanics predict a battery will fail through it lifetime as the residue of charge/discharge collects in the bottom/void of the battery. That residue is a normal: precipitates are the normal process of charge/discharge. Eventually, enough 'waste-junk' precipitates out, builds upward and shorts out the cell by bridging the plates = dead cell; not withstanding a plate disintegrates or the battery is boiled dry or frozen before its predictable life expectancy. I have gotten 4+ years out of the OEM and WalMart equivalents through due care. (yeah, i know, AGM, no care.....)My 2001 will get its third battery next week. So, how does an aspirin change the mix? Perhaps it levels the mix in the bottom of the shorted cell? Just curious: Just how long did this remedy last? A weekend or a season? or just long enough to get you to a battery retailer? I did see a frugal person (no not me) revive a dead/weak m/c battery while we were living in the college dorm; dump the acid in a pan, flush with clean water repeatedly until it flushed clean (purging the void in the bottom of the battery), replace the battery acid, service with distilled water and recharge. "It only has to work long enough to sell the bike. and it did. Seems like it had the bike for a few weeks and then sold it. I learned a second lesson that day. I would not ever buy something from this very gifted and talented mechanic, as he had a different sense of value. The same bike lost 30K miles from the before and during his ownership. "Its not a blind mans game" or so he said. He bought the bike a bargin, knowing that he would also turn back the clock. revmaaatin.

[Bogdan Swider]

Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: battery or alternator???? Ron, I’m writing to second Jud’s procedure. That’s exactly what I do.( I also am in tune with Jud’s political opinions – just kidding.) Anyway, if a lawyer and art professor can do it, so can an artiste like you. I found a cheapo $10 Harbor Freight multi- meter works well for the simple stuff I do. Those colored lights belong in discotheques or on Christmas trees. I also bet there’s zero wrong with your charging system; you need a new battery. Don’t be cheap; get one that’s sealed. Bogdan

On 3/20/10 7:45 AM, "Jud" judjonzz@...> wrote:

        I think all the flashing lights would leave me more in the dark than before I started. I use a multimeter across the battery terminals. First I charge the battery and let it stand for an hour. A good battery should read about 12.6 v. Crank the starter; the voltage should not drop below 10v. If it does, the battery is on its way out. Charging voltage at idle should be in the neighborhood of 13.1 v, rising with revs until the regulator cuts it off somewhere  around 14.5 volts. I think I got this procedure from someone on this list several years ago. I have discovered several failing batteries with it, a couple of which I have revived (for a while) with aspirin. I have found one bad regulator, but never a bad alternator, yet. --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com , "roncriswell@..." wrote: > > My KLR is getting where it won't hardly turn over the engine acting like a weak battery. The battery is maybe 3 years old. I went and got this battery checker thing at Harbor Freight. It says let the battery sit 12 hours before you check it. I was curious so hooked both wires up. Directions say if red, yellow, green light comes on without engine running the battery is great. If only red light comes on, bad battery and red and yellow light means a fair battery. Well, red and yellow came on but this was without sitting unused for 12 hours. Next I did the alternator test where both green lights were supposed to come on for the alternator to be good. The alternator green light didn't so that according to directions means bad alternator. What do the list think? The bike has also backfired during starting the last two starts and I have had to push start it a couple times (down a hill thank goodness). The bike has almost 53,000 miles on it. If it is the alternator, where do you get the best deal on one? > > Criswell >