fix for leak at doohickey adjuster?

[terranova22]

About a year ago, i bought a centerstand from Arrowhead Motorsports. It came with longer bolts (2 for each footpeg) that replace the ones that attach the footpegs to the frame. I assumed that they would be stronger, since they are now supporting the entire bike on the C-stand as well as the rider on the pegs. A while ago, I noticed that the left footpeg was a little loose. I just went to snug it up, and after hearing a little bit of clicking, the bolt snapped. Then i tried to tighten the other one and it also snapped! Did i do something wrong, or were the bolts not strong enough to do the job as intended? (I used a small 3/8 ratchet with a 2" extension, and wasn't really cranking on it). So now i need to drill out the remainder of the bolt thats stuck in the thread of the bracket. Any advice on how to do this? Should i try to get stronger bolts, or just give up on the centerstand altogether?

[Richard Decker]

Sounds to me like you got a bum set of bolts... either that, or they weakend because they were loose and twisting them put the last nail in the coffin. Perhaps replace with grade 10.9 and a bit o' blue locktite? -Rich

On Thu, Jul 9, 2009 at 11:41 PM, terranova22 wrote: > > > About a year ago, i bought a centerstand from Arrowhead Motorsports. It > came with longer bolts (2 for each footpeg) that replace the ones that > attach the footpegs to the frame. I assumed that they would be stronger, > since they are now supporting the entire bike on the C-stand as well as the > rider on the pegs. > A while ago, I noticed that the left footpeg was a little loose. I just > went to snug it up, and after hearing a little bit of clicking, the bolt > snapped. Then i tried to tighten the other one and it also snapped! Did i do > something wrong, or were the bolts not strong enough to do the job as > intended? (I used a small 3/8 ratchet with a 2" extension, and wasn't really > cranking on it). > So now i need to drill out the remainder of the bolt thats stuck in the > thread of the bracket. Any advice on how to do this? Should i try to get > stronger bolts, or just give up on the centerstand altogether? > > > -- - Rich Decker Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jeff Saline]

On Fri, 10 Jul 2009 00:21:33 -0000 "ltslpr" writes:

> Greetings, > > A small leak (weepage, I think the term is) has begun at the > adjuster bolt for the doohickey. I see from the parts fiche there's > an O-ring on the bolt that seals the bolt against the exterior > engine cover. > > I'm guessing there's no way to replace this O-ring without removing > the engine cover; I've had the cover off three times (once for the > doohickey repair, once to replace a broken counterbalancer weight, > and the last time to replace the original gasket that leaked after > the counterbalancer weight repair) and don't want to take it off > again, especially since I really glued (gasket adhesive) the gasket > and metal mating surfaces together. > > But, before I fill the cavity the bolt sits in with silicone, I > thought I'd ask if anyone has experience with a different fix for > this leak. It's my understanding the adjuster bolt has a flange that > will prevent it being removed from the engine cover. > > Also, anyone have a recommendation for a particularly good silicone > or other filler for the cavity? I'm resigned to scraping some of the > filler out periodically to access the adjuster bolt. > > Thanks in advance for your replies, > Glenn > San Jose, CA

<><><><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><><><> Glenn, I use plumbers silicone grease on most o-rings on motorcycles. That seems to help them seal and slows deterioration. Probably too late now without removing the cover. Don't remove the adjuster to slide it out and replace the o-ring. There is a small washer, just below the flange you mention, on the end that contacts the doohickey. You surely don't want that washer falling off the end of the bolt and loose inside the engine. I'd probably clean the inside of the adjuster cavity if I was going to try a temp fix. Maybe use alcohol and a q-tip. Then I'd probably coat the exposed part of the adjuster with a light oil or grease and fill the cavity with RTV. After it cures for about 24 hours I'd give it a good test. When riding season is slow or done I'd repair it correctly. For whatever it's worth... In the future I'd suggest you don't use a gasket sealer/adhesive on new gaskets unless it's called for by the factory. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT ____________________________________________________________ Put your loved ones in good hands with quality senior assisted living. Click now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTJkoM1n9DtzvaqvxkuxeSWZ4Cpm5eUE4263G7qBgfDfSAd1Fjiw5y/