2006 klr for sale...

[Luc Legrain]

I've got 23k on my original chain and rear sproket,done everything I could to keep them alive, but that's it... end of the line for both of them.. The front sprocket will have to go too. I will give them a decent burial.. My question is (and once again, I am sure that some of you already posted the answers in the past,)I re-tighten the chain as I have done many times, how much slack is allowed when sitting full body weight, all 220lbs of me, on the bike twisting around and grabbing the chain with index finger and pulling up ? should you hit the rubber piece under the swing arm ?? Thanks

[Jake Wilson]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Luc Legrain wrote:

> > > I've got 23k on my original chain and rear sproket,done everything I could to keep them alive, but that's it... end of the line for both of them.. The front sprocket will have to go too. I will give them a decent burial.. >

~~~I was planning on replacing both oe front and rear sprocket and chain at 12 K miles (8 K miles now). Too soon? What is the general consensus as to when oem drive chain and sprockets should be replaced with normal chain maint.? My normal chain maint. program consists of lube with Maxima Chain wax approx every 200 miles, chain gets degreased about once every 1000 miles. Degreasing consists of me hitting the chain with a spray bottle of water soluble degreaser using a parts brush to work the degreaser, water hose rinse, then dry with the air nozzle from the air compressor, re-lube with Maxima chain wax. My KLR is mostly ridden on paved roads This 08' KLR is the first chain drivemn machine for me since 95' but, prior to that, tracing back to the start of my riding days (starting out on enduros-1975), conventional wisdom was to replace both sprockets and the chain every 12 K miles. Obviously with proper care the chain and sprockets will go fruther than 12 K miles but isn't it a good idea to replace these parts at the 12 K interval or no? What say others? Curious minds... Jake Reddick Fla.

[Spike55]

My OEM counter-sprocket, chain, and an aftermarket 44T rear sprocket are still in good shape after 16.5K on my '06. I use Bel-Ray every so often and carry a micro-can of WD-40 to treat the chain a day or two after muddy-road riding while away from home. No well thought out method here - I do it when I remember. I adjust the chain with my one son on the bike (similar weight to me). I'm always looking for 1.75"-2.25" of up / down movement with the swing-arm in the 'riding position'. I don't want the chain too tight that it pulls on the counter-shaft when bouncing around in the dirt. When the bike is sitting at rest (no one on it), I often get told that the chain looks too lose but apparently it must be about right when in use. Don R100, A6F

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Luc Legrain wrote: > > > I've got 23k on my original chain and rear sproket,done everything I could to keep them alive, but that's it... end of the line for both of them.. The front sprocket will have to go too. I will give them a decent burial.. > My question is (and once again, I am sure that some of you already posted the answers in the past,)I re-tighten the chain as I have done many times, how much slack is allowed when sitting full body weight, all 220lbs of me, on the bike twisting around and grabbing the chain with index finger and pulling up ? should you hit the rubber piece under the swing arm ?? > Thanks >

[Greg May]

Hi Jake, with the preventative maintenance that you are already doing on your chain and sprockets they should last much longer then 12000, My method of inspection is to keep an eye on the condition of the front sprocket, as soon as it shows any amount of wear I replace it, this would generally happen in the off season. I normally go through at least 2 fronts to a chain and rear sprocket which I replace as a set. The chain inspction part other then strech I check to see how far you can pull the chain out of the teeth of the rear sprocket, a new chain will hardly move, as both wear you can start to pull the chain clear of the sprocket as checked parallel with the swingarm at the back. Also look for rollers in the chain that are getting loose. One thing at the risk of starting a great chain lube debate, I tried using chain wax once because I heard it was not as messy and in the one can saw more wear then I have ever seen that quickly on an o-ring chain, just my opinion but I think the wax products are garbage. Have a great day,,,,,Greg

--- On Sun, 7/5/09, Jake Wilson wrote: From: Jake Wilson Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: klr650 : More of " Chain Tension Question " To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Received: Sunday, July 5, 2009, 4:02 PM --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com, Luc Legrain wrote: > > > I've got 23k on my original chain and rear sproket,done everything I could to keep them alive, but that's it... end of the line for both of them.. The front sprocket will have to go too. I will give them a decent burial.. > ~~~I was planning on replacing both oe front and rear sprocket and chain at 12 K miles (8 K miles now). Too soon? What is the general consensus as to when oem drive chain and sprockets should be replaced with normal chain maint.? My normal chain maint. program consists of lube with Maxima Chain wax approx every 200 miles, chain gets degreased about once every 1000 miles. Degreasing consists of me hitting the chain with a spray bottle of water soluble degreaser using a parts brush to work the degreaser, water hose rinse, then dry with the air nozzle from the air compressor, re-lube with Maxima chain wax. My KLR is mostly ridden on paved roads This 08' KLR is the first chain drivemn machine for me since 95' but, prior to that, tracing back to the start of my riding days (starting out on enduros-1975) , conventional wisdom was to replace both sprockets and the chain every 12 K miles. Obviously with proper care the chain and sprockets will go fruther than 12 K miles but isn't it a good idea to replace these parts at the 12 K interval or no? What say others? Curious minds... Jake Reddick Fla. __________________________________________________________________ Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr! http://www.flickr.com/gift/ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[David Giuliani]

I once read here that the lower chain should almost touch the rubber of the swing arm when pushed up. That is, when the bike is parked on its side stand unloaded. This method makes chain tension checking much easier than the loaded method. Dave

[D Critchley]

Clymers book M474, starting on p59 ending on p62 has a detailed run-down on the "Chain & sprocket" situation. It mirrors the method in the Service Manuals, and you don't have to bite the heads off chickens to do the job. There is no maybe about it. It is laid out well, and that was the only method that was used from 2000 to 2007 on my A13, without a problem. Same method as on the 2008, with slightly different measurements. Perhaps the various other suggestions are aimed at different bikes. DC David Giuliani wrote:

> > > I once read here that the lower chain should almost touch the rubber > of the swing arm when pushed up. That is, when the bike is parked on > its side stand unloaded. This method makes chain tension checking much > easier than the loaded method. > Dave,_ >

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jud Jones]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Luc Legrain wrote:

> > > I've got 23k on my original chain and rear sproket,done everything I could to keep them alive, but that's it... end of the line for both of them.. The front sprocket will have to go too. I will give them a decent burial.. > My question is (and once again, I am sure that some of you already posted the answers in the past,)I re-tighten the chain as I have done many times, how much slack is allowed when sitting full body weight, all 220lbs of me, on the bike twisting around and grabbing the chain with index finger and pulling up ? should you hit the rubber piece under the swing arm ?? > Thanks >

With the bike on the sidestand, and your full 220 lb. crouching on the ground next to the bike, the chain should just touch the swing arm at the midpoint of the lower run.

[Jud Jones]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jake Wilson" wrote:

> > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Luc Legrain wrote: > > > > > > I've got 23k on my original chain and rear sproket,done everything I could to keep them alive, but that's it... end of the line for both of them.. The front sprocket will have to go too. I will give them a decent burial.. > > > > > > > ~~~I was planning on replacing both oe front and rear sprocket and chain at 12 K miles (8 K miles now). Too soon? What is the general consensus as to when oem drive chain and sprockets should be replaced with normal chain maint.? My normal chain maint. program consists of lube with Maxima Chain wax approx every 200 miles, chain gets degreased about once every 1000 miles. Degreasing consists of me hitting the chain with a spray bottle of water soluble degreaser using a parts brush to work the degreaser, water hose rinse, then dry with the air nozzle from the air compressor, re-lube with Maxima chain wax. My KLR is mostly ridden on paved roads > > > This 08' KLR is the first chain drivemn machine for me since 95' but, prior to that, tracing back to the start of my riding days (starting out on enduros-1975), conventional wisdom was to replace both sprockets and the chain every 12 K miles. > > > Obviously with proper care the chain and sprockets will go fruther than 12 K miles but isn't it a good idea to replace these parts at the 12 K interval or no? What say others? > > > Curious minds... >

Chains are expensive. I don't see any point in replacing them prematurely. Spend the money on gas, or lunch.

[dooden]

Ya and not to mention you can do it with your foot and not spill your beer too. Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "David Giuliani" wrote: > > I once read here that the lower chain should almost touch the rubber of the swing arm when pushed up. That is, when the bike is parked on its side stand unloaded. This method makes chain tension checking much easier than the loaded method. > Dave >

[Richard Decker]

Good luck on the sale, How are the ammo can panniers? Too heavy?

On Mon, Jul 6, 2009 at 8:36 PM, wantar1200gs wrote: > > > Up for sale here. My bike. Just under 9000 miles, Recent valve adjustment. > D606 tires front and back, happy-trail nerf bars and SU rack, skid plate,air > box mod, studebaker dash, center stand, kawi tank bag and tail bag, aux > lights, ammo can panniers, 14 15 and 16 tooth counter sprockets. I have > every receipt for everything i have put onto the bike.. oh yeah a tool tube > too.. Always garged and heated in winter. Located in West Fargo, ND.. I > figure i woudl give it a shot to sell on here first from all the help > everyone offers in case someone knows another looking for a bike that has > been well kept.. asking $4250.00 > > 701-429-0573 is the number to call about it, I just took a few photos, can > take more on request.. > > Email slipper21@... > > Hope for a quick sale.. > > Travis > > > -- - Rich Decker Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]