klr650: block heater cheapo way

[David Bell]

I know this is a common problem. I stripped the nut behind the mounting box on my rt. footpeg. I have a centerstand, in case that matters. I've seen an elaborate fix which involves drilling out the nuts in the box with a small hole saw, welding a plate with new nuts in the new holes in the box, and having a better than new mounting bracket. I have a oxy acetylene torch and a stick welder and limited welding skills. I was hoping for something simpler and easier. What is wrong with these ideas? 1. 8 mm Helicoil in the box 2. Drill the stripped hole out a bit and tap it for 9 or 10 mm If either of those works, which one works better? Thanks in advance. db

[Jeff Saline]

On Fri, 14 Nov 2008 18:22:15 -0800 (PST) David Bell writes:

> I know this is a common problem. I stripped the nut behind the > mounting box on my rt. footpeg. I have a centerstand, in case that > matters. > > I've seen an elaborate fix which involves drilling out the nuts in > the box with a small hole saw, welding a plate with new nuts in the > new holes in the box, and having a better than new mounting bracket. > I have a oxy acetylene torch and a stick welder and limited welding > skills. I was hoping for something simpler and easier. > > What is wrong with these ideas? > > 1. 8 mm Helicoil in the box > 2. Drill the stripped hole out a bit and tap it for 9 or 10 mm > > If either of those works, which one works better? > > Thanks in advance. > > db

<><><><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><><><> David, I changed mine to 10mm a few years ago and they are still working great. Many folks on this list and others will tell you there isn't enough meat available to tap the holes to 10mm. Not so in my experience. Drilling the footpeg brackets to accept a 10mm bolt was tough. Also, maybe get socket head bolts before you begin so you can make sure you have enough room for the change in bolts. An M10 bolt with a hex head will have to be timed "just so" to be able to tighten with both bolts installed. I'll suggest to you that this isn't the place to use oxy-fuel or stick (SMAW) welding equipment unless you are skilled in both processes. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT ____________________________________________________________ Fly cheap! Click here for great airfare deals. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/PnY6rw2i0Ih7JSAn1a5AZbrkzSLmeYRgfWQDE8fStcLcQVZnkW4ok/

[cactus_reese]

I just retapped mine with an 8 mm tap. I used red locktite when I reassembled and it has been fine for 3 months. -Bryan

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, David Bell wrote: > > I know this is a common problem. I stripped the nut behind the mounting box on my rt. footpeg. I have a centerstand, in case that matters. > > I've seen an elaborate fix which involves drilling out the nuts in the box with a small hole saw, welding a plate with new nuts in the new holes in the box, and having a better than new mounting bracket. I have a oxy acetylene torch and a stick welder and limited welding skills. I was hoping for something simpler and easier. > > What is wrong with these ideas? > > 1. 8 mm Helicoil in the box > 2. Drill the stripped hole out a bit and tap it for 9 or 10 mm > > If either of those works, which one works better? > > Thanks in advance. > > db >

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, David Bell wrote:

> > I know this is a common problem. I stripped the nut behind the

mounting box on my rt. footpeg. I have a centerstand, in case that matters.

> > I've seen an elaborate fix which involves drilling out the nuts in

the box with a small hole saw, welding a plate with new nuts in the new holes in the box, and having a better than new mounting bracket. I have a oxy acetylene torch and a stick welder and limited welding skills. I was hoping for something simpler and easier.

> > What is wrong with these ideas? > > 1. 8 mm Helicoil in the box > 2. Drill the stripped hole out a bit and tap it for 9 or 10 mm > > If either of those works, which one works better? > > Thanks in advance. > > db >

Dave, Jeff is going to tell you the 10mm tapped solution works good for him. What ever Jeff says, take it to the bank! Someone suggested, "check your footpeg bolts!" and I did, mine were loose, and I promptly twisted off the first one as I re-tightened it! Yikes. Removed the others to see they were all deformed--most likely as a result of the centerstand bearing on the threads of the bolt instead of a shoulder. Plus some torque-ing moments applied to bolt via the centerstand and the degree of how much/often you stand on the footpegs. This is a little late for you, but during the annual on-going discussion of footpeg bolts, I have found, the best solution is to replace them annually (sic) with a grade 10 bolt to a torque value of (hold head low)....Unfortunately, my bike and manuals are 'combat- loaded' in the one car garage with the car and are not easily accessible. Perhaps someone else can respond. Whatever the value-- don't over torque it! which is the most often cause of the nut stripped out--as reported here on DSN For others, check often, replace annually some use locktite--I go without, and don't suffer the worse for it. If you have a welder-friend and never want to use a center stand, the hole-saw repair with the plated-nutt insert looks like the catz meow. revmaaatin.

[fasteddiecopeman]

Dave, You ask "what's wrong with this idea...". The nuts in the box are square ones (old wisdom was that any square nut is LESS than grade 2) with only 2 to 3 threads, therefore soft with limited engagement for the bolt, which is limited in size (width) for what it's asked to do. I posted MANY MOONS ago about how I fixed mine: 1. cut off the 'face' of the box and grind the old nuts out; 2. drill the footpegs and the 'face' to 10mm (or 3/8"); 3. 'locate' the face and 'pegs by putting the bolts (10mm OR 3/8, AND I SUGGEST ALLEN HEAD BOLTS SO THAT THEY DON'T FOUL ONE ANOTHER!) thru and attaching Grade 8 nuts (I KNOW that their hardness WILL change during welding, but a good welder can minimize the heat getting in!) and tack the nuts to the 'face'; 4. remove the bolts and 'pegs and complete welding the nuts to the 'face'; and 5. weld the 'faces' back onto the boxes and re-install the stand, 'pegs, etc. Since I did mine I can use way more than the 12 lb-ft of torque called for with stockers, and they've NEVER loosened! BTW, impacts from bottoming onto your center-stand probably over stressed the nuts in the first place. Cheers, Ed

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, David Bell wrote: > > I know this is a common problem. I stripped the nut behind the mounting box on my rt. footpeg. I have a centerstand, in case that matters. > > I've seen an elaborate fix which involves drilling out the nuts in the box with a small hole saw, welding a plate with new nuts in the new holes in the box, and having a better than new mounting bracket. I have a oxy acetylene torch and a stick welder and limited welding skills. I was hoping for something simpler and easier. > > What is wrong with these ideas? > > 1. 8 mm Helicoil in the box > 2. Drill the stripped hole out a bit and tap it for 9 or 10 mm > > If either of those works, which one works better? > > Thanks in advance. > > db >

[E.L. Green]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "fasteddiecopeman" wrote:

> 1. cut off the 'face' of the box and grind the old nuts out;

I just shot 8mm helicoils into my nuts. Helicoils are made of some outrageously strong steel and they extend into the box metal too so they spread the force over both the nuts and the box. I also replaced the footpeg bolts with grade 12.9 socket head bolts that will not stretch the way the compressed spaghetti OEM ones will. Mission accomplished. No problem since, even before I removed the centerstand (anybody want a used Dual-Star centerstand?). If anybody is in the San Jose area and needs a stripped-out footpeg nut helicoiled, just drop me an email. I still have the stuff for doing it and plenty of coils left. -E

[David Bell]

Actually, I did this yesterday. It worked out quite well, as far as I know. I used the socket heads as well. I've been hearing about helicoils for years in various contexts but that's the first time I used them. I also removed the centerstand. On a recent ds trip to Galeana Mexico the centerstand drug often. I promised my bike a new shock when I got back and it was delivered yesterday (Moab). I'm 6'2" and 270 +/-, so I definitely need all the suspension I can get. I've also brought my brakes up as far as I can. I already had the large EBC rotor and galfer green pads on the front. I just put on Galfer greens on the rear and front and rear stainless brake lines. If there is another brake upgrade I don't know what it is..... db ________________________________ From: E.L. Green To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, November 16, 2008 11:39:20 AM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: stripped footpeg nut

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com, "fasteddiecopeman" wrote: > 1. cut off the 'face' of the box and grind the old nuts out; I just shot 8mm helicoils into my nuts. Helicoils are made of some outrageously strong steel and they extend into the box metal too so they spread the force over both the nuts and the box. I also replaced the footpeg bolts with grade 12.9 socket head bolts that will not stretch the way the compressed spaghetti OEM ones will. Mission accomplished. No problem since, even before I removed the centerstand (anybody want a used Dual-Star centerstand? ). If anybody is in the San Jose area and needs a stripped-out footpeg nut helicoiled, just drop me an email. I still have the stuff for doing it and plenty of coils left. -E [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Tengai Mark Van Horn]

At 5:39 PM +0000 11/16/08, E.L. Green wrote:

>I just shot 8mm helicoils into my nuts.

That musta hurt. Mark

[Jud Jones]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "E.L. Green" wrote:

> > I just shot 8mm helicoils into my nuts.

Makes me cringe just to think about it.

[MarkB]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, David Bell wrote:

> > I know this is a common problem. I stripped the nut behind the

mounting box on my rt. footpeg. I have a centerstand, in case that matters.

> > I've seen an elaborate fix which involves drilling out the nuts in

the box with a small hole saw, welding a plate with new nuts in the new holes in the box, and having a better than new mounting bracket. I have a oxy acetylene torch and a stick welder and limited welding skills. I was hoping for something simpler and easier.

> > What is wrong with these ideas? > > 1. 8 mm Helicoil in the box > 2. Drill the stripped hole out a bit and tap it for 9 or 10 mm > > If either of those works, which one works better? > > Thanks in advance. > > db >

It all depends on how you use the bike. The 8mm stripped because they are too weak for the load that you placed on them. Many riders do the drill and tap / helicoil and refit with 10mm grade 8 bolts. Photo how-to here ... http://markb.smugmug.com/gallery/1710495_Y4AxD The only proper way is to refit the box with heavier nuts. The little 8m nuts just don't have enough metal to stand up to serious abuse. I opened the box up and welded in a set of grade 8 nuts, 10mm. Photo how-to here ... http://markb.smugmug.com/gallery/2406593_HKGbE#126134157_VoDpo Good luck with your project!