thinking of trading my 07' for a 09' looking for feedback on new mod

[Robert Waters]

I installed the preload adjusters today, changed the fluid to Mopar synthetic ATF and did some driving and adjusting. Adjusters They were easy to install and it was really nice to be able to carry a ratchet and easily adjust and adjust until things were just right. Could this have been done without paying the $125.00? Probably, if you had the time and inclination to keep cutting pieces of pipe or adding washers. You might get lucky and get it like you want it in a couple of hours. But with these adjusters if the springs weaken all I have to do is a little turning and it is back in sink again. I'm happy with these. If I were pinching pennies I probably would not have ordered the farkle and would have probably been happy after changing the oil. ATF synthetic Changing the fluid was easier than I thought it would be. You do need an impact wrench to get the pugs out of the end. Quite a bit of crap was in it and I only have 11k on the bike. I used diesel oil to wash the crap out. Before finishing, stick the bolt back up through the hold in the bottom and pump it some. This will allow more of the dirty oil to come out. To change the fluid you need to be able to lift your front off the ground from the ceiling. Then, when you remove the nuts at the top of the fork you can pull the wheel up and let it down using a bike tie down. After you get the plugs and spring out you can look down through the top and see all the way through. This was my first effort to work on forks. Didn't know you could see through them. It was a bit of a surprise. If I had it to do over I would probably put the plugs back in and put a cup of diesel in and each side and pump it a bit before taking the plugs out again. At any rate, I think I got it pretty clean. It took the whole quart of ATF. I used some to flush out the diesel and the old oil and there was barely enough left for the 250 ml needed for each side. There are steps in some of the instruction I have read that I fail to see were necessary. Like taking off the wheel, removing the caliper and using a pump to get the exact right amount. Someone make take me to tack on this, but I suppose I can take it. Maybe I didn't do it right and just thought it rides better now. Robert Waters NW Arkansas [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[ltrcman]

Robert, Thanks for the feed back on the synthetic ATF, that was quick. If your happy with the damping it provides, and it sounds like both you and Ross are, I can't think of any reason not to use it. ATF is tuff stuff and it needs to be. I'll try it next time. Glad to hear you're happy with your preload adjusters also. Thanks again, Dan Bittner Sacramento, Ca. --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Robert Waters wrote:

> > I installed the preload adjusters today, changed the fluid to Mopar

synthetic ATF and did some driving and adjusting.

> > Adjusters > They were easy to install and it was really nice to be able to

carry a ratchet and easily adjust and adjust until things were just right. Could this have been done without paying the $125.00? Probably, if you had the time and inclination to keep cutting pieces of pipe or adding washers. You might get lucky and get it like you want it in a couple of hours. But with these adjusters if the springs weaken all I have to do is a little turning and it is back in sink again. I'm happy with these. If I were pinching pennies I probably would not have ordered the farkle and would have probably been happy after changing the oil.

> > ATF synthetic > Changing the fluid was easier than I thought it would be. You do

need an impact wrench to get the pugs out of the end. Quite a bit of crap was in it and I only have 11k on the bike. I used diesel oil to wash the crap out. Before finishing, stick the bolt back up through the hold in the bottom and pump it some. This will allow more of the dirty oil to come out.

> > To change the fluid you need to be able to lift your front off the

ground from the ceiling. Then, when you remove the nuts at the top of the fork you can pull the wheel up and let it down using a bike tie down. After you get the plugs and spring out you can look down through the top and see all the way through. This was my first effort to work on forks. Didn't know you could see through them. It was a bit of a surprise. If I had it to do over I would probably put the plugs back in and put a cup of diesel in and each side and pump it a bit before taking the plugs out again. At any rate, I think I got it pretty clean.

> > It took the whole quart of ATF. I used some to flush out the

diesel and the old oil and there was barely enough left for the 250 ml needed for each side. There are steps in some of the instruction I have read that I fail to see were necessary. Like taking off the wheel, removing the caliper and using a pump to get the exact right amount. Someone make take me to tack on this, but I suppose I can take it. Maybe I didn't do it right and just thought it rides better now.

> > Robert Waters > NW Arkansas > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[Fred Hink]

For those that have been asking about the Preload Adjusters for the 2008 KLR, I should have them in about a week. There will also be available soon the new "Economy" Preload Adjusters for both series at a reduced price. The instructions for the Preload Adjusters have been updated to show the placement of the OEM washer and the washer that comes with the Kit. Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com http://s1.zetaboards.com/arrowhead

----- Original Message ----- From: ltrcman To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2008 10:39 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Fork Preload Adjusters & ATF Fluid Robert, Thanks for the feed back on the synthetic ATF, that was quick. If your happy with the damping it provides, and it sounds like both you and Ross are, I can't think of any reason not to use it. ATF is tuff stuff and it needs to be. I'll try it next time. Glad to hear you're happy with your preload adjusters also. Thanks again, Dan Bittner Sacramento, Ca. --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Robert Waters wrote: > > I installed the preload adjusters today, changed the fluid to Mopar synthetic ATF and did some driving and adjusting. > > Adjusters > They were easy to install and it was really nice to be able to carry a ratchet and easily adjust and adjust until things were just right. Could this have been done without paying the $125.00? Probably, if you had the time and inclination to keep cutting pieces of pipe or adding washers. You might get lucky and get it like you want it in a couple of hours. But with these adjusters if the springs weaken all I have to do is a little turning and it is back in sink again. I'm happy with these. If I were pinching pennies I probably would not have ordered the farkle and would have probably been happy after changing the oil. > > ATF synthetic > Changing the fluid was easier than I thought it would be. You do need an impact wrench to get the pugs out of the end. Quite a bit of crap was in it and I only have 11k on the bike. I used diesel oil to wash the crap out. Before finishing, stick the bolt back up through the hold in the bottom and pump it some. This will allow more of the dirty oil to come out. > > To change the fluid you need to be able to lift your front off the ground from the ceiling. Then, when you remove the nuts at the top of the fork you can pull the wheel up and let it down using a bike tie down. After you get the plugs and spring out you can look down through the top and see all the way through. This was my first effort to work on forks. Didn't know you could see through them. It was a bit of a surprise. If I had it to do over I would probably put the plugs back in and put a cup of diesel in and each side and pump it a bit before taking the plugs out again. At any rate, I think I got it pretty clean. > > It took the whole quart of ATF. I used some to flush out the diesel and the old oil and there was barely enough left for the 250 ml needed for each side. There are steps in some of the instruction I have read that I fail to see were necessary. Like taking off the wheel, removing the caliper and using a pump to get the exact right amount. Someone make take me to tack on this, but I suppose I can take it. Maybe I didn't do it right and just thought it rides better now. > > Robert Waters > NW Arkansas > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[kusstj]

I have had a couple of KLR650's (A9 and A16) and now my buddy has a new style 08. In riding the new one, I think Kawasaki deserves a ton of credit for refining this engine. It is much smoother and far less "thumpy". I was indeed impressed. I really do like the new fairing too, it is more substantial. and its looks make me drooool. But, on the other hand, I have the A16 (2002) set up w/ progressive springs, heavier fork oil, and ims foot pegs, and a taller windshield / fixed doohickey, Kenda knobbies. what's not to love?. So, it is clear which one makes sense to ride out to the deer stand! Not saying you couldn't set up a new one to go off road, but until someone comes out with a fairing guard or cow catcher to put on the front of it, that beautiful fairing is gonna get beat up in the woods. I felt the same way about the vstrom or some of the nice bmw rides which are supposedly "dual sport" They look too nice to take off road. Don't get me wrong, if I ran across one I would consider it, but personally I'd be better off picking up a DR650 as a back up bike. good luck, Ride safe, Todd in Chaska MN A16 06 700 efi