i need info on the t venting?

[christengai]

Guys I have managed to snap 2 clutch cables in the last eighteen months. I live and ride in the the wet old UK, so maybe that's a factor. Question - Should you lube cables? and if so with what and how? I have tried before and managed to get a light oil someway down the cable but it never appears at the other end. I examined the snapped ends of the cable today and found a thick dry deposit stuck to the cable at the engine end. The cable was difficult to thread back through, like the gunk was blocking it up. Cheers Chris

[andykisz]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "christengai" wrote:

> > Guys > > I have managed to snap 2 clutch cables in the last eighteen months. > > I live and ride in the the wet old UK, so maybe that's a factor. > > Question - Should you lube cables? and if so with what and how? I have > tried before and managed to get a light oil someway down the cable but > it never appears at the other end. > > I examined the snapped ends of the cable today and found a thick dry > deposit stuck to the cable at the engine end. The cable was difficult > to thread back through, like the gunk was blocking it up. > > Cheers Chris >

Here is a bread crumb for you. Follow the trail. http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/view/cable_luber/

[Bogdan Swider]

Yo Chris, I likewise recommend the tool Andy gave the link to. Furthermore, I would get into the habit of inspecting your cables once in a while. I find they re most likely to break where the cable enters the housing. I put a little extra lube there periodically. If they start getting frayed in those areas replace the cables before they break. Bogdan

On 8/28/08 8:43 AM, "christengai" wrote: > > > > Guys > > I have managed to snap 2 clutch cables in the last eighteen months. > > I live and ride in the the wet old UK, so maybe that's a factor. > > Question - Should you lube cables? and if so with what and how? I have > tried before and managed to get a light oil someway down the cable but > it never appears at the other end. > > I examined the snapped ends of the cable today and found a thick dry > deposit stuck to the cable at the engine end. The cable was difficult > to thread back through, like the gunk was blocking it up. > > Cheers Chris > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Michael Nelson]

Most clutch cables are teflon lined and don't need much in the way of internal lubrication. But have you ever noticed that when they do break they almost always break where the cable enters the cast barrel at the end? Those barrels need to be cleaned and lubricated regularly with some waterproof grease. You also need to clean the dirt out of the lever where they seat. If you don't, then when you use the lever the barrel doesn't swivel in its seat, and it causes the wires of the cable to flex back and forth. Flex any piece of wire back and forth enough times and it will break, because it becomes work-hardened. Clean and lube the ENDS of the cable. -- "Tragedy is when I cut my finger. Comedy is when you fall into an open manhole and die." -- Mel Brooks San Francisco, CA

[Reverend]

Yep, and though people might argue what to use, I've been pouring down a small amount of synthetic motor oil (same as I pour in the bike) in the top side of the cable, and leaving it overnight. It'll creep down and whatever flows out the other end is collected in rag left wrapped around the bottom part. Nice, smooth pull. The synthetic seems to 'creep' along the cable easier than regular dyno, and since I pour the slop in the engine, I do the lubing at the same time.

> -----Original Message----- > Behalf Of christengai > Question - Should you lube cables? and if so with what and how? I have > tried before and managed to get a light oil someway down the cable but > it never appears at the other end.

[Jud Jones]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Bogdan Swider wrote:

> > Yo Chris, I likewise recommend the tool Andy gave the link to. Furthermore, > I would get into the habit of inspecting your cables once in a while. I > find they re most likely to break where the cable enters the housing. I put > a little extra lube there periodically. If they start getting frayed in > those areas replace the cables before they break. > > Bogdan >

All good advice, to which I would add: every so often, lube the barrel and lever. Lithium grease is good here, but a little motor oil or wheel bearing grease will also serve. The barrel should be free to move in the lever; if it binds up there, the cable flexes, and will break off right at the barrel. It's easy to overlook, because the open side is on the underside of the lever. In the days when we had brake cables, too, some guys would switch levers, so the open side would be on top, easy to see and remember to lube. Of course, they could trap water and grit that way, but if you were conscientious, you could maintain them more easily.

[grbhfng]

Question: I got a set of replacement cables, spares, and noticed that one of them has a "kink" in the cable, not the housing, but the cable itself. Should I replace it ?

--- On Thu, 8/28/08, Jud Jones wrote: From: Jud Jones Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Snapping Clutch Cables To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Thursday, August 28, 2008, 6:44 PM --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com, Bogdan Swider wrote: > > Yo Chris, I likewise recommend the tool Andy gave the link to. Furthermore, > I would get into the habit of inspecting your cables once in a while. I > find they re most likely to break where the cable enters the housing. I put > a little extra lube there periodically. If they start getting frayed in > those areas replace the cables before they break. > > Bogdan > All good advice, to which I would add: every so often, lube the barrel and lever. Lithium grease is good here, but a little motor oil or wheel bearing grease will also serve. The barrel should be free to move in the lever; if it binds up there, the cable flexes, and will break off right at the barrel. It's easy to overlook, because the open side is on the underside of the lever. In the days when we had brake cables, too, some guys would switch levers, so the open side would be on top, easy to see and remember to lube. Of course, they could trap water and grit that way, but if you were conscientious, you could maintain them more easily. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Mike]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Michael Van Horn wrote:

> > Ok, I have an 08 and I want to do the T upgrade to the venting.

Listening to a member from New Orleans that was going to EVAC on his KLR and it was not done convinced me I need to do mine ASAP. Winter is coming and My KLR is my emergency transportation.

> > Can someone give me the instructions? Michael > >

On the 2008, they move the drain line up to the vent position, or the upper leg of the "T" or "Y" mod. A "Y" type fitting works better. There is a pink 1/4" flexible plastic tube attached to the left side of the carb. Cut this tube about 1" to 2" from the carb. Install the "Y" with 2 legs up, one going to the carb and put the other part you just cut on the other upper leg of the "Y". Attach a piece of 1/4" plastic tubing about 12" or so to the down leg of the "Y", and run it down and to the right, and nest to the airbox drain tube - it's black and has a plug in the bottom. This fitting on the carb has to work as both a drain and a vent. When they ran it up across the airbox on the 2008 it no longer works as a drain. all the best, Mike