not starting...and i'm all choked up...problem solved

[abico2012]

Ideas please. 06, 4000 miles, always ran perfect, always Shell premium fuel. It sat idle for 3+ weeks and now it will start with choke on and one push of the starter button. When I release the choke and/or give it any throttle, it dies. I know many on this list know much more than I on keeping our KLRs moving. Before I start digging in, I would appreciate your suggestions. Joe Herring, Twin Falls, Idaho

[Jud Jones]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "abico2012" wrote:

> > Ideas please. 06, 4000 miles, always ran perfect, always Shell premium > fuel. It sat idle for 3+ weeks and now it will start with choke on and > one push of the starter button. When I release the choke and/or give it > any throttle, it dies. I know many on this list know much more than I > on keeping our KLRs moving. Before I start digging in, I would > appreciate your suggestions. > Joe Herring, Twin Falls, Idaho >

This is almost always a gummed up pilot jet. possible cures in ascending order of difficulty: 1. Seafoam in the gas tank 2. Yamaha carb cleaner, 50/50 with gasoline in the float bowl. Inject it with a pump oiler, follow the directions, chase with SeaFoam in the gas tank. 3. Strip the carb and unblock the jet manually, or replace it. #2 works almost every time.

[Arden Kysely]

Jud's right. This has never happened to my KLR, but my DR-Z has done it twice. I took the carb apart the first time; got smart the second time and used SeaFoam. It did the trick. BTW, why are you running premium? __Arden

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jud Jones" wrote: > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "abico2012" wrote: > > > > Ideas please. 06, 4000 miles, always ran perfect, always Shell premium > > fuel. It sat idle for 3+ weeks and now it will start with choke on and > > one push of the starter button. When I release the choke and/or give it > > any throttle, it dies. I know many on this list know much more than I > > on keeping our KLRs moving. Before I start digging in, I would > > appreciate your suggestions. > > Joe Herring, Twin Falls, Idaho > > > This is almost always a gummed up pilot jet. possible cures in ascending order of difficulty: > 1. Seafoam in the gas tank > 2. Yamaha carb cleaner, 50/50 with gasoline in the float bowl. Inject it with a pump oiler, > follow the directions, chase with SeaFoam in the gas tank. > 3. Strip the carb and unblock the jet manually, or replace it. > > #2 works almost every time. >

[Randy]

If the fuel you're using contains ethanol, that and time may contribute to the problem. Local dealerships have notes posted stating ethanol will loosen corrosion buildup in fuel lines and within the carb, and if the engine isn't started often enough, that buildup comes loose and will clog carb jets or injectors when the engine is finally started. This is especially common on bikes that have been winterized even with a fuel stabilizer. When the bike is brought in for dewinterization, it's usually a major (read expensive) repair order to clean carbs/injectors. Mechanics recommend starting the engine at least every 2 weeks and letting it run at varying RPMs until operating temperature is reached.

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "traderpro2003" wrote:

> > All good questions, Rev. > > Donor motor? I didn't think it would be easier or cheaper.

Besides,

> I felt it was my fault for not watching closer the oil level. > Granted I think a severely clogged air filter complicated matters,

I

> should have been more diligent in a couple ways. > > What would I do differently? > > 1. Install an oil pressure sensor and idiot light (if someone can > confirm this setup will warn you before it's too late) > > 2. I wouldn't be so hasty to get the repair done and "behind me." > At the time, I'd only been in Colorado for 3-months. So in

teaching

> myself a $$$ lesson, I didn't research options thoroughly. I could > have shopped other dealers (note: I give Colorado Powersports a C-

on

> this $1,100 job) and asked around to find motorcycle machine

shops.

> Heck, I just found out about Schnitz's service in these last few > days/threads! > > 3. In true "you complete me fashion" I would not change placing > highest priority on getting my KLR fixed. I'd just be smarter

about

> the repair and maybe understand better exactly what will be done

and

> details regarding the mechanic's experience, etc. > > Significant advantage to do the overhaul? Being spring-time, I > figured it was best to drop off the bike and let an expert overhaul > it in reasonable time. The dealer never suggested swapping

engines.

> And who knows what you get with a donor engine? And after a > blissfull 14k+ miles of pleasure, a $1k overhaul seemed

reasonable.

> Of course, the dealer promised "like new" look and feel with the > overhaul and this appealed to me as much as not missing openning

day

> of KLR season. > > Bottom-line: Next time I'd still overhaul but try Schnitz or a

local

> equivalent. Most likely I'd do the tear-down and re-install and > simply leave the machining to a quality, klr-familiar professional. > > - Brian >

Brian, Thanks for the thoughtful reply. I hope the overhaul will allow you a bunch of miles before you have to go to another tear down cycle. revmaaatin.

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Randy" wrote:

> > If the fuel you're using contains ethanol, that and time may

contribute

> to the problem. Local dealerships have notes posted stating

ethanol

> will loosen corrosion buildup in fuel lines and within the carb,

and if

> the engine isn't started often enough, that buildup comes loose and > will clog carb jets or injectors when the engine is finally

started.

> This is especially common on bikes that have been winterized even

with

> a fuel stabilizer. When the bike is brought in for

dewinterization,

> it's usually a major (read expensive) repair order to clean > carbs/injectors. Mechanics recommend starting the engine at least > every 2 weeks and letting it run at varying RPMs until operating > temperature is reached. >

Randy, Just curious--what fuel stabilizer are you using? Your suggestion/results are completely contrary to my own experience. If it is Stabil, I would agree--but I quit using that 5 winters ago. I have several motorcycles that are not ridden for about 4-5 months in the harshest months of the South Dakota winters. The last tank- fulls of gas are ALWAYS treated with Seafoam (as I learned about it here at DSN) and nary a problem in the Spring, motorcycle resurrection. I also ride the bike until the carb runs dry, etc, when parking for the winter. That is what works in this environment...YMMV. etc. Contrary to your mechanic's suggestion (environment specific), cough, I wonder how long it is going to reach operating temps when the OAT is +10F or less for weeks at a time. For the conditions here, I don't think that suggestion is really a good idea as the operating temps will not get high enough to displace condensation in the oil without riding the bike for some time. My young riders cringe at anything less than +40F, so I don't think I am going to get them out very long in the winter to help do carburetor maintenance. shrug. On the other hand--the US military has ships full of tactical vehicles (prepositioned vessels) that follow that exact regimen suggested by your mechanic. They also have worker-bees that do it for a living.... following an environmentally specific regimen. On the other hand--there are winter over crews in Antarctica that deep-preserve certain vehicles and they sit until the spring thaw. Following the suggestions from our highly-experienced (and mildly opinionated) friends, plus following the directions on the Seafoam container has ended needless heartache and headaches previously experienced during the Spring reserection. revmaaatin.