first fork oil change, i think...

[Charlie Y]

Where I like to ride alot, there's this stream I have to cross. And most of the time it's 1-2 feet deep. Sometimes it's completely dry, but sometimes it's over 3 feet deep. It's not particularly fast-moving water, but I wonder, What is the deep-water limit? I have the T-mod routed up to the steering bearing. Is that the deepest I can go? When does she start to suck water? I need to know since its a looong uphill push back to the house. - charlie

[grufrude]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Charlie Y" wrote:

> > Where I like to ride alot, there's this stream I have to cross. > And most of the time it's 1-2 feet deep. Sometimes it's > completely dry, but sometimes it's over 3 feet deep. > It's not particularly fast-moving water, but I wonder, > What is the deep-water limit? I have the T-mod routed up > to the steering bearing. Is that the deepest I can go? > When does she start to suck water? I need to know > since its a looong uphill push back to the house. > > - charlie >

Don't get it in any deeper than the bottom of the air cleaner box -- and even then, not for very long. Once the water gets to the air filter, you are lucky if the connecting rod doesn't bend when the the engine hydraulic-locks and you better have 3 quarts of fresh oil to replace the milky soup you'll be draining from the crankcase . . .

[Jeff Saline]

On Sat, 5 Apr 2008 21:59:26 -0400 "Charlie Y" writes:

> Where I like to ride alot, there's this stream I have to cross. > And most of the time it's 1-2 feet deep. Sometimes it's > completely dry, but sometimes it's over 3 feet deep. > It's not particularly fast-moving water, but I wonder, > What is the deep-water limit? I have the T-mod routed up > to the steering bearing. Is that the deepest I can go? > When does she start to suck water? I need to know > since its a looong uphill push back to the house. > > - charlie

<><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> charlie, Back in the 70s I was taught that anytime you cross water you should adjust your speed to the conditions. The rule was you never want the water to splash higher than the front fender. So if the water is only 6 inches deep you can enter it a lot faster than water that is 12" or 24". Watching riders hit puddles that cause water to splash over their helmets tells me they are being reckless. Along these same thoughts if your speed is correct the water will part as you ride and close in behind you. That allows you to travel through water deeper than the air intake is high. On the KLR 650 the air intake is on the left side at about the same height as the bottom edge of the seat. I'm guessing here that if the crossing conditions are very nice you might be able to ford water 6-12 inches higher than that. But I don't believe I'd ever try it. : ) I'd like to have an area where I could practice water crossings starting at 6 inches or so and increasing in 3 inch increments until I was no longer comfortable. I'm guessing in good to excellent conditions I'd be willing to try 18-21 inches of water when on the trail with a full load of touring gear. The speed would be slow and I'd be trying to concentrate on flipping the kill switch if I went under. I remember in the late 70s hearing about the world record for riding a motorcycle under water. It was accomplished in Australia and the bike was a Suzuki TS-185. That was my first motorcycle in 1974. The rider used scuba gear and had a snorkel for the intake and also the exhaust. It was ridden 18 feet under water for 1/4 mile. I only remember that as I have very fond memories of my TS-185. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

[Jeff Saline]

On Sun, 6 Apr 2008 14:53:44 -0700 (PDT) Jacobus De Bruyn writes:

> Jeff, and underwater riders in general, > I still am a bit mystified about why my bike stalled > riding on the beach. I tried to stay out of the > water, but sometimes the wash caught up with me, and > going more higher up would bring me into soft sand. > Just some joyful splashing, until a bigger splash, and > stop it was. Never more than 6 inches of water. > After some more reflection, I remembered that the > electrics at the ignition key switch and thereabouts, > are pretty exposed, as is the CDI area. So, is it > basically a nice weather bike for riding in the > suburbs? A thing to fiddle with, and talk about, and > take for a spin on a warm july night? > Riding at 4000 revs in the first gear sounds like an > overworked engine, but in the higher gears it sounds > like a relaxed engine. Why could that be? > Jacostarica.

<><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> Jake, If you haven't done the tee mode to the carburetor vent line the bike can stall on the highway in wet weather. I ride mine in all kinds of weather and in a variety of conditions. I wouldn't call it a nice weather bike for riding in the suburbs. But it will do that well too. : ) Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

[Jacobus De Bruyn]

Jeff, and underwater riders in general, I still am a bit mystified about why my bike stalled riding on the beach. I tried to stay out of the water, but sometimes the wash caught up with me, and going more higher up would bring me into soft sand. Just some joyful splashing, until a bigger splash, and stop it was. Never more than 6 inches of water. After some more reflection, I remembered that the electrics at the ignition key switch and thereabouts, are pretty exposed, as is the CDI area. So, is it basically a nice weather bike for riding in the suburbs? A thing to fiddle with, and talk about, and take for a spin on a warm july night? Riding at 4000 revs in the first gear sounds like an overworked engine, but in the higher gears it sounds like a relaxed engine. Why could that be? Jacostarica. ____________________________________________________________________________________ You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost. http://tc.deals.yahoo.com/tc/blockbuster/text5.com

[Jeff Saline]

On Sun, 06 Apr 2008 02:50:01 -0000 "loudicks" writes:

> Looking for some advice that I can't seem to find via searches... > Aging fat rider with limited mechanical skills here. I'm > comfortable > with doing my own basic maintenance but am leery of doing some of > the > more complex jobs. I'm thinking of doing a fork overhaul next. > Bought > my 03 KLR with 17,000 miles 2 years ago and have since added about > another 10,000 miles. It's been a great runner and I have no > complaints about fork dive or general fork performance that others > have complained about so I'm wondering if the PO might have done > progressives springs or has more fork oil than stock or what. Since > it > ain't broke, I'm thinking I shouldn't try to fix it, but then > others > seem to think fork oil should be changed at least every couple > years. > Should I change the oil or let it go until I don't like the way it > handles? > If I change the oil, what stuff should I do at the same time since > I > hate wrenching and probably won't do it again for a few years? > Should > I do the fork seals, boots etc? Should I swap out the fork oil > drain > screws for better ones? What should I have on hand when I start the > job so I'm prepared for any eventuality? Nothing worse than starting > a > job that should take a day and finding out your missing one part > that > takes two weeks to get. I'd rather have stuff I don't need on hand > than not have what I need. Thanks, John

<><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> John, I haven't seen a reply to your question so thought I'd have a go at it. I think it's well worth the effort to clean the forks innards with a higher mileage bike. Your's has about 27,000 miles on it so it's a fine candidate for this. You could just drain and flush but that will leave some residue in the forks. But since you don't like to wrench that might be a good option for you. Or since you don't like wrenching and are happy with the performance you could just ride on into the sunset enjoying life. : ) I like the idea of replacing the drain bolts with socket head bolts when you have them out. The size you need is M4 with a .70 pitch 6mm long. I had to buy bolts that were longer and cut them to the correct length. If the fork boots are in good shape then I suggest you leave them alone. Remember, you don't really like to wrench. : ) I guess you'll need fork oil, 1 liter should do if you don't spill it. When you adjust your fork oil level remember the forks are compressed. So you have to do that with the fork springs out of the tubes. If you adjust the fork oil level with the forks extended, when you put the springs in and caps on the forks will barely move. A guy did that a year or two ago and blew the seals on his first short ride. I wouldn't replace a fork seal until I took the fork apart and/or it was leaking. I would clean and pack the speedo drive if I was pulling the front wheel. I think once you loosen the fork drain bolts pulling the wheel makes it easier to capture the fork oil and also helps keep it off the brake rotor and pads. Loosen the drain bolts with the wheel in place as the axle will help keep the forks from twisting. Don't hang the brake caliper by the hose. I use a bent coat hanger wire to dangle it out of the way. If I was going to really do some maintenance I'd repack the steering head bearings, clean the fork innards and bleed the front brake system and service the speedo drive. And I'd use dielectric grease on the electrical connections under the instrument cluster when I put it back together. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT