rectifier

[RM]

The fan motor on my A14 finally ate it. Last I heard, there were no aftermarket options. Has the picture changed at all? Any retrofits? RM

[Zachariah Mully]

On Mon, 2008-02-11 at 08:17 -0800, RM wrote:

> The fan motor on my A14 finally ate it. Last I heard, there were no > aftermarket options. Has the picture changed at all? Any retrofits? > > RM

Maybe see if you can find someone to rewind it for you. As long as they can get it apart with destroying the case, I don't see why it couldn't be rebuilt. Z

[Walter Mitty]

Are you sure it is the fan motor and not something else like the relay? There are some on eBay as we speak. Stan RM wrote: The fan motor on my A14 finally ate it. Last I heard, there were no aftermarket options. Has the picture changed at all? Any retrofits? RM --------------------------------- Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[RM]

The fan spins very slowly and needs some help getting started. The bushings are OK -- The fan spins easily. It just doesn't have any torque. It'll do nothing until you rotate the blades to a certain point. I think a winding has burned out. RM On Mon, 11 Feb 2008 12:45:32 -0800 (PST), "Walter Mitty" said: Are you sure it is the fan motor and not something else like the relay? There are some on eBay as we speak.

[JD]

I went through this last year. I was lucky and someone sold me a used motor from a salvage for a fraction of the price of a new one. Keep your old fan blade! It too is worth it's weight in gold!! Sorry I don't have any great fix, but it got me on the road again. JD A15 ________________________________________

> > The fan spins very slowly and needs some help getting started. The > bushings are OK -- The fan spins easily. It just doesn't have any > torque. It'll do nothing until you rotate the blades to a certain > point. I think a winding has burned out. > > RM

[Horton Oliphant]

Sounds to me like it is a DC motor that uses brushes and commutator and the brushes may be bad, the commutator may need resurfacing or as you suggest one or more of the windings are bad. I can't remember if the motor would be easy to take apart to have a look. Al Henderson A13 Iowa RM wrote:

> The fan spins very slowly and needs some help getting started. The > bushings are OK -- The fan spins easily. It just doesn't have any > torque. It'll do nothing until you rotate the blades to a certain > point. I think a winding has burned out. >

[E.L. Green]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "RM" wrote:

> > The fan spins very slowly and needs some help getting started. The > bushings are OK -- The fan spins easily. It just doesn't have any > torque. It'll do nothing until you rotate the blades to a certain > point. I think a winding has burned out.

What happens if you jump the fan directly to a 12v source? Time to grab a couple of alligator clips and a long piece of wire, methinks, pop the seat off, jump the fan directly to the battery, and see what happens. (Also take a voltmeter to the battery and make sure it has 12v in it!).

[Greg May]

Hi Jake, thought I'd toss in my 2 cents in on your charging issue. First the disclaimer that the info I'm passing on is from looking at the wiring diagram, a quick look at a Clymer's, and most of my life in the Electrical field. Without seeing the the Kawasaki manual I'm guessing that they are suggesting some combination of resistance and voltage checks since the the unit you are dealing with is actually a combined rectifier and shunt type regulator. This type of regulator works by disapating any of it's unused capacity as heat, making your ground connection very important. What this means is that the rectifier section could be fine as proven by the resistance checks but the regulator section might still have a problem which you would have to diaginose by doing voltage checks. Personally I would say with a fully charged battery voltage checks should be enough to determine where the problem is, then if needed go to resistance type troubleshooting from there. As well as a fully charged battery before I started I would check all the connections, both plug, ground and at the battery terminals before I started, that way you may just cure your problem before you start your meter checks. Since you say that after 3 of the 4 sugested checks all was ok I assume that you did the resistance checks first. If you are using a digital meter and it has a diode check function I suggest you repeat using the diode check function as opposed to the resistance check. The difference doing this is that your reading will be in volts (supplied by the meter) as opposed to in ohms. A diode has a foreward voltage drop of approximately 0.5 volts and up to the point that it fails will pass no voltage in the reverse direction. A 3 phase rectifier, what the KLR has uses 6 diodes all of which need to be tested in both the foreward and reverse direction, 12 checks in all. To do the tests, with the meter set to the diode check setting and the positive probe connected to the B+ pin on the regulator as you individally check all 3 of the pins which would connect to the stator leads you should read approximately 0.5 volts on the meter. Next put the negative lead on the B+ pin and and again check to the pins that the stator connect to, you should see O.L. A reading of 0 volts on any test would indicate a shorted rectifier. Next repeat with the positive probe on the Ground pin of the regulator and check to the 3 stator pins of your regulator, your reading should be O.L. Repeat the tests with the negative probe on the Ground pin and checking to the 3 pins where the stator would connect to you should see approximately 0.5 volts. Again a reading of 0 volts would indicate a shorted diode. The above checks will confirm the whether the rectifier section is ok or junk, next if you haven't done them first you'll need to do the voltage checks as described in the manual to determine if the regulator section is ok. Hopefully this helps and doesn't confuse and that you actually found loose or bad connection which would be quite likely since your problem is intermitant....Have a great evening......Greg Jacobus De Bruyn wrote: It seemed probable that the rectifier was defective, but after three of the four tests as per manual supplement, it seems ok, but then the good folks from Kasawaki continue to say, that even if all the tests indicate that the rectifier is good, it still could be bad. Interesting. We will continue step by step to solve this riddle, and ALL riddles!! Yours Truly, costarica Jake man. Yes, indeed, the Culprit is Albertson extra special finest blended...I don t get double malt from my captains, cheap bastards! __________________________________________________________ Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ --------------------------------- All new Yahoo! Mail - --------------------------------- Get a sneak peak at messages with a handy reading pane. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]