bad main bearing

[Dana Christensen]

Hey all. I have 3 questions and was wondering if anyone had answers. 1) With the oil disscussion over, lets move over to the oil filter. Are there good/bad ones? what should I be looking for AND how offten do others change them. This is my first bike after many years (2008) and I need to get back into the mind set again of maint and upkeep. 2) Does anyone have or know of a PMS scheduling or posting of recommended scheduling? I know that what the Kawasaki dealer believes to be true is only for the advertiseing and not set from the owner/users standpoint. After years in the service I am a firm believer in the set and solid PMS (Preventitive Maint Schedule) method of equipment maint. 3) Is there a web site or Email for Eagle Mike? (stupid question, I know) and is it his place in SD where the TECH day is going to be held? I am thinking of trying to do my "do" while im there but have some questions and reservations. Thanks to you all for your inputs, wisdom, rantings and knowledge. I have been and avid reader/lurker but am feeling more at home and a part of the group. Thanks again, Dana '08 KLR

[Michael Nelson]

On Fri, Feb 08, 2008 at 04:19:54PM -0000, Dana Christensen wrote:

> 2) Does anyone have or know of a PMS scheduling

My ex-wife had hers scheduled once a month, like clockwork. -- "It ain't those parts of the Bible that I can't understand that bother me, it is the parts that I do understand." -- Mark Twain San Francisco, CA

[Jeff Saline]

On Fri, 08 Feb 2008 16:19:54 -0000 "Dana Christensen" writes:

> Hey all. > I have 3 questions and was wondering if anyone had answers. > > 1) With the oil disscussion over, lets move over to the oil filter. > > Are there good/bad ones? what should I be looking for AND how offten > > do others change them. This is my first bike after many years (2008) > > and I need to get back into the mind set again of maint and upkeep. > > 2) Does anyone have or know of a PMS scheduling or posting of > recommended scheduling? I know that what the Kawasaki dealer > believes > to be true is only for the advertiseing and not set from the > owner/users standpoint. After years in the service I am a firm > believer in the set and solid PMS (Preventitive Maint Schedule) > method of equipment maint. > > 3) Is there a web site or Email for Eagle Mike? (stupid question, I > > know) and is it his place in SD where the TECH day is going to be > held? > I am thinking of trying to do my "do" while im there but have some > questions and reservations. > > Thanks to you all for your inputs, wisdom, rantings and knowledge. I > > have been and avid reader/lurker but am feeling more at home and a > part of the group. > > Thanks again, > > Dana > > '08 KLR

<><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><> Dana, I don't have any experience with the 2008 models other than I've talked with a couple of guys that had just bought them last fall or a couple of guys locally that had test ridden one. I did look at the owner's manual a few weeks ago just to see what it really said about oil changes and valve adjustment intervals. So knowing the above I'll tell you I'm basing my suggestions on my experiences with 1987-2007 models. 1) Oil filters. Somebody a year or two or so ago got on the list and talked about how they had examined a few different oil filters. As I recall they weren't very impressed with many oil filters with the media that was used. I'm not quite so picky with my filters. I do examine the media on every filter I take out of my KLR. In fact I save each filter labeled with date and mileage. It's an eye opener when you look at the first few filter changes. I don't know that there is one oil filter better than another. I use Emgo filters (I think the number is 10-30000) because I bought 20 for less than $2 a filter. I think the OEM filters cost close to $9 each. I recently bought a FRAM filter (CH6070) to find out if it really did come with an o-ring. It did. Cost was about $6.50 I think but the o-ring alone at the dealer is about $5. I don't change the o-ring when I change a filter but I do clean and lube it. I've got 23,000+ miles on my KLR with no leaks on the original filter. Yet. : ) I suggest you figure out how often you're gonna change a filter each year and then buy something that meets your cost and quality requirements. I'm adding a 1a, 1b and 1c as I have comments that go well with this subject. 1a) I change the filter each oil change usually if I'm at home. When I'm traveling I start with fresh oil and filter and then only change the oil while on the road. I've been doing oil analysis so my oil change interval is in flux. I started at 1,000 smiles and then increased it 250 smiles each oil change while I see how the analysis results look. I had an issue with my engine after a high temperature incident last summer and that delayed getting to the 2,000 mile mark for oil changes. I hope to get to that early this year. Currently I can tell you I'm using Rotella 15w/40 dino oil and it works well in my KLR the way I use it up to 1,750 smiles. I think it will go very close to 2,000 smiles before being a 30 weight. I'll share the results when I get them. I think a guy could go 5,000 plus miles on a filter without problems if the engine is in good condition. I did that on the Great Divide Ride in 2004 and when examining the filter I can't tell any difference from one with only 1,500 smiles on it. 1b) I suggest you clean the oil pick up screen under the right side case cover. It's about the size of a thimble and I think it should be cleaned soon after you get 1,000 miles on the bike. It takes maybe two hours if you don't mess something up and you'll probably feel pretty good when done knowing it is clean. Until I the oil screen is cleaned I think it's worth changing the filter with every oil change. 1c) I'm guessing the 2008 models still use a 12mm drain plug. If so I suggest you replace the stock drain plug crush washer with a NAPA soft washer. Part number is 704-1371. Cost is about $1. This soft washer is reuseable numerous times. I've probably used mine with a dozen oil changes. It takes less torque than the stock aluminum washer to seal. I think it will help prevent folks from overtorquing the drain plug as it seals so well. 2) First, thanks for your service to our country. I appreciate it. I too served and was well versed in preventative maintenance. For whatever it's worth I think equipment can get over maintained very easily. I understand the thought process the military uses for it's equipment and it's expected performance. I think that would be too much for most folks KLR use. Enough said about that. : ) I don't know of a computerized or web site with PMS on it. My suggestion is you change the oil no less than every 12 months, right before storage if the bike won't be used for an extended period or not more than 2,000 miles. Change the coolant every other year or 12,000 miles or so. Adjust the valves by 1,500 miles (I know the dealer says it's not needed until 15,000 miles) and then check and adjust as needed every 10,000 miles. Maybe reduce that to 6,000 miles if you are a hard rider with lots of high rpms. High being extended intervals over 5,000 rpm. Check tire pressure every two days of riding or if it hasn't been checked in a week. Check the chain tension when you check tires or fill with fuel. Lube the chain when you feel like it with whatever you want to spray on it. I use white lithium grease to lube/protect the o-rings and then WD-40 to wash dirt off the chain. Check battery fluid levels at each oil change and only use distilled water to top off the cells. Do not over fill. Check fasteners regularly when you are touring. Carry the tools in a handy location (I use my tank bag) and don't be afraid to get them out for a few minutes and visit with your bike and see how it's holding up. The more you do this the better feel you'll get for how often you need to check fasteners. Clean the air cleaner every oil change if you are riding in dusty conditions. Maybe less if only on pavement. Maybe everyday if in really dusty conditions like following Steve Rankin or Martin Earl in the dirt. I use No Toil air filter maintenance products because they are environmentally friendly, work well, are easy to use and are available at many locations. Change your fork oil by 15,000 miles or so. Lube your rear suspension linkages as soon as you possibly can. Same for the steering head bearings. Do not pressure wash the steering head, rear suspension or wheel bearings unless you are going to immediately pull them apart and service them. Bet I forgot a few items other folks on the list will add. : ) 3) Eagle Mike will probably contact you as he monitor this list. Trust him and do what he suggests. He won't lead you wrong. Do the doohickey and you'll be glad you did. I suggest you DO NOT adjust the doohickey until after you've changed it. Mike can show you how to look to see if it was working once you get into the engine. I've seen doohickeys that moved more than 1/4" once I started to pry them off the case. If the owner had "adjusted" it they would have thought everything was fine when in reality nothing happened. Also, if the spring is broken (my 2003 was broken at 3,200 smiles) if you adjust it any tension on the balancer chain will be lost. Again, you won't know it as from the outside everything looks the fine. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

[Blake Sobiloff]

On Feb 8, 2008, at 8:19 AM, Dana Christensen wrote:

> 1) With the oil disscussion over, lets move over to the oil filter. > Are there good/bad ones? what should I be looking for AND how offten > do others change them. This is my first bike after many years (2008) > and I need to get back into the mind set again of maint and upkeep.

As usual, Jeff gave ya' the straight scoop. The only thing I'll add is that I bought one of each brand of filter available for the KLR (an OEM Kawasaki 16099-004, a Wix 24951, a NAPA Gold 4951, a Fram CH6070, a K&N Performance Gold KN-123, and an EMGO 10-30000). I called every manufacturer (except Kawasaki) and none would provide betas for their filters. (Betas are a measure of how effectively the filter can capture particles in a particular size range. It's a more standardized measurement than "micron efficiency" and a better way to fairly compare filters. Fram has a good article about betas at http://www.fram.com/pdf/FluidFilterRating.pdf> if you want to learn more.) They're all cellulose (paper) filters, and not one has shown itself to be better at filtering particles than any other in my used oil analyses. FWIW, the EMGO had the most media (736mm) and the OEM had the least (469mm). So, I ended up buying a 10-pack of the EMGO filters from Fred at Arrowhead Motorsports. They're the least expensive, yet they seem to do just as good a job as any of the others and their construction quality is just as good, too. Have fun on that '08, Dana! -- Blake Sobiloff http://www.sobiloff.com/> San Jose, CA (USA)

[Mike]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Dana Christensen" wrote:

>

snipped>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.

> > 3) Is there a web site or Email for Eagle Mike? (stupid question, I > know) and is it his place in SD where the TECH day is going to be > held? > I am thinking of trying to do my "do" while im there but have some > questions and reservations. > > Thanks to you all for your inputs, wisdom, rantings and knowledge. I > have been and avid reader/lurker but am feeling more at home and a > part of the group. > > Thanks again, > > Dana > > '08 KLR >

Dana, The tech day will be help at my shop. www.leftcoastklrs.com has the details. Do a little browsing on the site if needed. Tolls and parts will be available. all the best, Mike

[Shane]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "greasedog123" wrote:

> > Just a note. I posted a note a couple of months ago about having a > strange noise coming from my 03 KLR engine with 40,000 easy miles. > Changed oil every 2,000 miles. It was a growly noise and mild > clicking- not valve tapping. > > Took the ignition side apart and found that one of the balancer > sprockets (which have a rubber coating on them to keep noise down

was

> worn badly). Thought(hoped) that was the problem and replaced the > sprokets. Several fellow KLR listers wrote me with possible > solutions and I thank them for that. > > With the engine back together it started right up but the same

noise

> was there. My next guess was a bad bearing. After exploring the > cost of replacing bearings(and finding out that the ignition side > main bearing cannot be replaced without replacing that side of the > crankshaft) I opted to buy a used bottom end off of ebay. There is > one on there every week and most go for 250-300 bucks + shipping. > > Thankfully this was the problem- the ignition side roller bearing.

I

> took my original crankcase apart and the bearing rollers had been > sliding on the race and made it dull which produced the growly

noise

> and the clicking was the crankshaft rubbing one of the 3 screws > holding the bearing race in place. I could hear the noises easily

by

> turning the crankshaft by hand. > > One of the guys that wrote me said his 03 did this same thing at > 20,000 miles. Has anyone else had this kind of problem? My bike

had

> been running so good I thought it would go forever. Now I'm

skittish

> about keeping the bike for fear of this happening again. I sure

know

> how to work on a KLR engine now though. Just wondering if it is a > design problem. > > John in Florida >

John This isn't a design problem really, many engines use this type of bearing system and some fail. That bearing is replacable. I repair Suzuki cranks for other shops who are afraid/ don't know how to. You don't need to be afraid of the KLR because of this experience, there are many with lots more miles still out there. Your trouble is just the luck of the draw, or bad Karma take your choice. So, as I tell all my customers- Get out there and burn some gas, and BREAK something!! Shane, in Florida