valve adjustment 2.0

[Ronald Criswell]

What octane do you guys use in your KLR and other bikes? I usually run the cheap stuff with no problems in my KLR but if I let the Concourse sit very long it will start running rough and Seafoam generally takes care of it. I have been having some issues with my 2 stroke leaf blower and also the 2 stroke weedeater. The blower had started dying and just wouldn't run good with similar probs with the weedeater. I cleaned the air filter but didn't cure. I have been running both about 35 to 1 with Stabilzer and a good 2 stroke oil bought at Lowes. Yesturday I went to my local lawn engine guru / supplier and he said the problem was ethanol. He sold me a premix fuel with stabilizer and 50 to 1 oil already added with no ethanol. I went home and drained the tank on the blower and it ran much better although the fuel is kinda pricey at $3.95 a quart. Said it is to be used on air cooled only engines. Now what to use in my little 4 horse boat motor? The guy said to use premium in that as it has less ethanol. Should we as bikers use premium to avoid ethanol issues? I'll spring for the pricey special fuel for my lawn stuff as I don't like probs with my rope start motors. It hurts my arm to pull and pull and pull. Criswell

[Alan L Henderson]

Unfortunately this changes depending on the state you're in. In Iowa, to the best of my knowledge, the ethanol blends are at 10 percent regardless of grade unless you're talking about E85. We can still get ethanol free regular which is what I use in all my small air cooled engines. Alan A13 Iowa Ronald Criswell wrote: ethanol. Should we as bikers use premium to avoid ethanol issues?

> I'll spring for the pricey special fuel for my lawn stuff as I don't > like probs with my rope start motors. It hurts my arm to pull and > pull and pull. > > Criswell >

[a14@att.net]

I use regular 87 octane gasoline with 10% ethanol in my KLR and small engines without any problems. Only effect is a drop in mileage. Ethanol "absorbs" water which can be a good thing as it removes water which settles in the bottom of the tank and rusts the bottom out. It can also cause fuel to freeze in the line or carb. Too much "absorbed" water in the fuel could cause the problems you described. The best way to avoid these problems is to keep fuel tanks topped off or empty to minimise moisture in the air having contact with the fuel. Best to turn off the petcock or empty the tank and run the engine until the fuel burns out of the carb when storing for any length of time. Use gasoline containers that are sealed. You should be able to use a 50:1 mix for all two stroke engines without a problem. I use Echo brand which has a stablizer already in it. Check the label of what you buy. If it does'nt already have a stablizer buy something that does. Also you may want to try buying your fuel from another source. Some stations get water infiltration in there tanks and with ethanol in the mix it could already be well hydrated upon purchase. Walt

> What octane do you guys use in your KLR and other bikes? I usually > run the cheap stuff with no problems in my KLR but if I let the > Concourse sit very long it will start running rough and Seafoam > generally takes care of it. I have been having some issues with my 2 > stroke leaf blower and also the 2 stroke weedeater. The blower had > started dying and just wouldn't run good with similar probs with the > weedeater. I cleaned the air filter but didn't cure. I have been > running both about 35 to 1 with Stabilzer and a good 2 stroke oil > bought at Lowes. Yesturday I went to my local lawn engine guru / > supplier and he said the problem was ethanol. He sold me a premix > fuel with stabilizer and 50 to 1 oil already added with no ethanol. I > went home and drained the tank on the blower and it ran much better > although the fuel is kinda pricey at $3.95 a quart. Said it is to be > used on air cooled only engines. Now what to use in my little 4 horse > boat motor? The guy said to use premium in that as it has less > ethanol. Should we as bikers use premium to avoid ethanol issues? > I'll spring for the pricey special fuel for my lawn stuff as I don't > like probs with my rope start motors. It hurts my arm to pull and > pull and pull. > > Criswell >

[traderpro2003]

Most of you following standard shim-replacement protocol fear the 'abyss' as much as the next guy. Well, this time I did things a bit different with respect to the left side cam caps where SOP calls for removing completely the LEFT intake and exhaust cam caps. I left them as loose as possible without disengaging the ends of the cap bolts. Lastly, I used a strong magnet instead of tweezers to grip the shim and remove it from the bucket. I removed completely the RIGHT side (intake and exhaust) but I left the left side bolts all but out of their threads. Next, gingerly, I raised the fore and aft left intake and exhaust caps in unison as they're connected by an oil tube. (Note: You have to be delicate with all these caps taking notice there is a hidden but removeable steel sleeve that provides strength and alignment between the cap and cylinder.) So DO NOT pry or otherwise get radical lifting up/off any cam cap. The object of this method is to leave the entire left side loose enough to lift the cams from the right and get at the shims. This way worked well for me this time and reduced the risk of high- wire maneuvers over the abyss. Besides, I've never been too keen on shoving shop rags in there (along with the bolt from or metal shavings from a previous job, etc.) or otherwise taking the time to seal every hole that otherwise would welcome my butter fingers. Again, this is merely an option for the mechanic to consider. Also, I tried a new method for grabbing the shims once lifted from the bucket. Instead of prying and then gripping with tweezers or pliers, I used a probe with a strong magnet. The magnet grabbed securely the shim at the precise moment I lifted it from bucket. Lastly, special thanks to Jeff Saline who has been very helpful behind the scenes in this latest round of valveworks... Cheers - Brian