ids2 exhaust for sale

[jeepaviation]

I have a very stiff area in my OEM chain. 13500 miles. I can hear it make a rub sound and it makes the bike surge every time the stiff area travels over the forward sprocket. Should I replace the chain and sprocket? Or should I just remove the chain and soak it in oil, clean, soak, clean, soak... until it becomes loose and inspect the sprokets for wear?

[Rodney Copeland]

That's close to where my stock chain started to stiffen up. I was able to run it for another 5-6 thousand before replacement by performing the chain maintenance I had been neglecting. If your rollers are way loose on the pins, I'd just bite the bullet, buy new chain and sprockets and giver hell next time with a better chain than the stocker, and of course do the maintenance this time! Rod --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "jeepaviation" wrote:

> > I have a very stiff area in my OEM chain. 13500 miles. I can hear it > make a rub sound and it makes the bike surge every time the stiff

area

> travels over the forward sprocket. > > Should I replace the chain and sprocket? Or should I just remove the > chain and soak it in oil, clean, soak, clean, soak... until it

becomes

> loose and inspect the sprokets for wear? >

[Blake Sobiloff]

On Nov 16, 2007, at 7:46 AM, jeepaviation wrote:

> Should I replace the chain and sprocket? Or should I just remove the > chain and soak it in oil, clean, soak, clean, soak... until it becomes > loose and inspect the sprokets for wear?

In my experience, once a chain gets stiff like that it's a goner. It usually means that one (or more) of the o/x/w/z-rings has leaked, letting the grease out and thus allowing for increased wear and rust in the link. You can do the clean and soak cycle a few times and sometimes get a few more miles out of it because that same leaky o- ring is letting your cleaner and lube back in, but it won't change the fact that the link is really worn and now is no longer sealed. I usually change the sprockets when I change a chain, because by the time a chain is shot on one of my bikes the sprockets are showing obvious wear, too. -- Blake Sobiloff http://www.sobiloff.com/> San Jose, CA (USA) [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jeff Saline]

On Fri, 16 Nov 2007 15:46:00 -0000 "jeepaviation" writes:

> I have a very stiff area in my OEM chain. 13500 miles. I can hear it > > make a rub sound and it makes the bike surge every time the stiff > area > travels over the forward sprocket. > > Should I replace the chain and sprocket? Or should I just remove the > > chain and soak it in oil, clean, soak, clean, soak... until it > becomes > loose and inspect the sprokets for wear?

<><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> Jeep, I was recently cleaning a mess in my shop and saw the worn chain link I posted about a week or so ago. I took another look at it and had and idea and a not so brilliant idea. I was trying to figure out how to get more life from a worn chain. Not real smart but an exercise in thinking. I noticed the link pin only seems to wear on about 180 degrees. So that leave the other 180 degrees or so close to unworn. For what it's worth all the o-rings that were taken off three links looked the same. Squished flat but not torn that I could see. No difference at all between the unworn link pin o-rings and the worn link pin o-rings. Now the not so brilliant idea was to put the wear on the unworn 180 degree portion of the pin by pushing the chain instead of pulling it Yeah, I know, that's like trying to push an inner tube on the water with a piece of rope. Just isn't gonna work real well. Then I had another idea. Maybe not brilliant but still, I think, possibly workable. What if you turn the chain around 180 degrees so the pull was now on the other side of the link? I'll try to describe what I mean. Grab the chain at the front (countershaf sprocket end) and rear (rear sprocket end) and keeping the upper run the upper run and the lower run the lower run swap the front and rear. That will put what was the left side of the chain on the right side. And I think now that'll also put the wear on the opposite side of the chain link pins too. Now on my old chain I was looking at the rollers wear a bit too. Most of the wear was on one side. So I'm thinking you might be able to get some more life from this chain by changing the direction of pull. Just a thought but you have a wonderful opportunity to do a bit of testing and see if it works. I know if it's a stock chain it's a bit of work to get it off since you have to pull the swing arm. But heck, that would be a good opportunity to lube the rear suspension linkage bearings and swing arm pivot too. I suppose it will cost you about an hour of work. I suppose you could also reverse the sprockets to get a bit more wear from them too. Make sure you're careful when torquing the rear sprocket nuts on the studs. I had two that were fractured on my bike. I made new ones using bolts and cutting the heads off them. Using a torque wrench allowed me to notice the difference from the other studs that weren't fractured. The countershaft sprocket will ride out of line just a tad if you reverse it but with a worn chain I don't think that'll be an issue. When you replace the chain you probably should change the sprockets anyway. You got what you paid for in this post. : ) Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jim Bolton]

I would also be interested in a trade for a fork brace....Thanks Again Jim Bolton wrote: I have a supertrapp muffler that is in great shape and would like to sell it. I would like 130 for it and 20 bucks for shipping.....anyone interested...thanks Jim --------------------------------- Be a better sports nut! Let your teams follow you with Yahoo Mobile. Try it now. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] --------------------------------- Be a better pen pal. Text or chat with friends inside Yahoo! Mail. See how. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[jeepaviation]

Thanks all, For the input on the stiff OEM chain. I do not have the time to R&D why the OEM is failing at only 13.5K I had expected to get 20K to 30K milage out of that chain. In addition, the areas where I ride require 100% reliability, so, the choice is a new chian / sprocket combo and a tire change to boot.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline wrote: > > On Fri, 16 Nov 2007 15:46:00 -0000 "jeepaviation" > writes: > > I have a very stiff area in my OEM chain. 13500 miles. I can hear it > > > > make a rub sound and it makes the bike surge every time the stiff > > area > > travels over the forward sprocket. > > > > Should I replace the chain and sprocket? Or should I just remove the > > > > chain and soak it in oil, clean, soak, clean, soak... until it > > becomes > > loose and inspect the sprokets for wear? > <><><><><><><> > <><><><><><><> > > Jeep, > > I was recently cleaning a mess in my shop and saw the worn chain link I > posted about a week or so ago. I took another look at it and had and > idea and a not so brilliant idea. I was trying to figure out how to get > more life from a worn chain. Not real smart but an exercise in thinking. > > I noticed the link pin only seems to wear on about 180 degrees. So that > leave the other 180 degrees or so close to unworn. For what it's worth > all the o-rings that were taken off three links looked the same. > Squished flat but not torn that I could see. No difference at all > between the unworn link pin o-rings and the worn link pin o-rings. > > Now the not so brilliant idea was to put the wear on the unworn 180 > degree portion of the pin by pushing the chain instead of pulling it > Yeah, I know, that's like trying to push an inner tube on the water with > a piece of rope. Just isn't gonna work real well. > > Then I had another idea. Maybe not brilliant but still, I think, > possibly workable. What if you turn the chain around 180 degrees so the > pull was now on the other side of the link? I'll try to describe what I > mean. Grab the chain at the front (countershaf sprocket end) and rear > (rear sprocket end) and keeping the upper run the upper run and the lower > run the lower run swap the front and rear. That will put what was the > left side of the chain on the right side. And I think now that'll also > put the wear on the opposite side of the chain link pins too. > > Now on my old chain I was looking at the rollers wear a bit too. Most of > the wear was on one side. So I'm thinking you might be able to get some > more life from this chain by changing the direction of pull. > > Just a thought but you have a wonderful opportunity to do a bit of > testing and see if it works. I know if it's a stock chain it's a bit of > work to get it off since you have to pull the swing arm. But heck, that > would be a good opportunity to lube the rear suspension linkage bearings > and swing arm pivot too. I suppose it will cost you about an hour of > work. > > I suppose you could also reverse the sprockets to get a bit more wear > from them too. Make sure you're careful when torquing the rear sprocket > nuts on the studs. I had two that were fractured on my bike. I made new > ones using bolts and cutting the heads off them. Using a torque wrench > allowed me to notice the difference from the other studs that weren't > fractured. The countershaft sprocket will ride out of line just a tad if > you reverse it but with a worn chain I don't think that'll be an issue. > When you replace the chain you probably should change the sprockets > anyway. > > You got what you paid for in this post. : ) > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >