Well, turns out my slow drip drip drip isn't from a petcock needing rebuilding. It's that #$%@
POS IMS gasket. It's dry-rotted and coming to pieces.
Rather than mess with the IMS crud anymore, I'm looking at the following two options:
1. Make a new gasket out of an old inner tube. I have *lots* of old inner tubes around. Even
one that's already been cut up (I used it to make new bumpers for my Givi sidebags after the
old bumpers fell out somewhere).
2. Make a new gasket out of black silicone gasket maker, the stuff that I use to seal up my
differential covers on my Jeep. Problem with that is, I dunno if that'll stick to the gas tank
well enough to seal it (that plastic that IMS uses is *slippery*).
What you think?
-E
clutch slippage
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#!#$ ims fuel petcock gasket
I havn't had any problems with my IMS over the years. Make sure the mounting surface is flat. Whatever you use it has to hold up to the gasoline. If you can find it the best thing to use would be a sheet of Viton about 1/8" thick or a bit thicker. http://www.dupontelastomers.com/Products/Viton/viton.asp> Walt> What you think? > > -E >
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#!#$ ims fuel petcock gasket
On Tue, 13 Nov 2007 21:08:27 -0000 "E.L. Green" writes:
<><><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><><> Eric, Having no experience with the IMS tank or petcock gasket isn't gonna stop me from commenting. : ) Here goes. I think I'd go with a sealant before I'd do the inner tube gasket. I don't know how long the inner tube would hold up in contact with gasoline. I'd probably not go with the black RTV (that's Room Temperature Vulcanizing for those that like to know that kind of stuff) since that should not hold up well in contact with fuel. Looking at a few gasket makers I've got on the shelf show that many state not for constant contact with gasoline. Now on a more positive note there are some gasket makers that are for use with fuel. One I just happened to grab is called gasket sealant Type 2. It's by VersaChem and shows a part number of 23009 for a 3 oz. tube. It's leak proof, non-hardening, pliable, for permanent and non-permanent assembilies. The UPC code on the back is 78727 23009. VerasChem Corporation, Riviera Beach, FL 33404. It says it's used to seal and repair metal to metal assemblies, new and used gaskets, broken gaskets, close fitting parts, hose connections, threaded connections, flanged surfaces and other assemblies. I'd guess the IMS tank falls under "other assemblies". : ) Something else that would probably work well is Ultra Gray. It too comes in a tube and is wonderful stuff. I haven't read the label lately to make sure it's good with fuel but I know it works on a torn side cover gasket for at least 2 years. Not my bike by the way but the guy that was done for was a cheapskate and didn't want to fork over the bucks for a new gasket after he tore it. The bad gasket you have could probably be lightly coated on both sides with ultra gray or similar product and then assembled. Let it cure/set for 12 to 24 hours and I bet you'd be good to go. I think the real issue isn't what will stick to the IMS tank but instead what will conform to the imperfections in the sealing surface so fuel can't pass. Just my 2 cents worth and you are getting what you've paid for. : ) Best and good luck, Jeff Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT> Well, turns out my slow drip drip drip isn't from a petcock needing > rebuilding. It's that #$%@ > POS IMS gasket. It's dry-rotted and coming to pieces. > > Rather than mess with the IMS crud anymore, I'm looking at the > following two options: > > 1. Make a new gasket out of an old inner tube. I have *lots* of old > inner tubes around. Even > one that's already been cut up (I used it to make new bumpers for my > Givi sidebags after the > old bumpers fell out somewhere). > > 2. Make a new gasket out of black silicone gasket maker, the stuff > that I use to seal up my > differential covers on my Jeep. Problem with that is, I dunno if > that'll stick to the gas tank > well enough to seal it (that plastic that IMS uses is *slippery*). > > What you think? > > -E
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#!#$ ims fuel petcock gasket
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "E.L. Green" wrote:
rebuilding. It's that #$%@> > Well, turns out my slow drip drip drip isn't from a petcock needing
following two options:> POS IMS gasket. It's dry-rotted and coming to pieces. > > Rather than mess with the IMS crud anymore, I'm looking at the
inner tubes around. Even> > 1. Make a new gasket out of an old inner tube. I have *lots* of old
Givi sidebags after the> one that's already been cut up (I used it to make new bumpers for my
that I use to seal up my> old bumpers fell out somewhere). > > 2. Make a new gasket out of black silicone gasket maker, the stuff
that'll stick to the gas tank> differential covers on my Jeep. Problem with that is, I dunno if
You might want to check if inner tube rubber and silicone are gasoline resistant. I'm not sure they are. You should be able to get sheet elastomer material that is gasoline resistant. ED> well enough to seal it (that plastic that IMS uses is *slippery*). > > What you think? > > -E >
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clutch slippage
I bought my KLR new. The first time it saw rain was about a 100 mile ride on interstate and country roads. It also sat out that night in the rain at camp. The next day my clutch was slipping due to a dry cable. Walt> I don't make a habit of riding in rain but have rode all day in it a > few times in a monsoon usually on the Concourse. > > Criswell >
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